The cat spray woes
Oh my, you've been there and done that haven't you? Especially if you happen to own a cat (pardon me – if they own you)! Spraying in the house is the number one behavior that is guaranteed to drive you right up the wall and right around the bend. It makes you just want to tear your hair out in frustration. There MUST be a way to stop this!
The Whys!
First let's look at why cats spray in the house in the first place. You probably know they're marking their territory, but honestly they aren't doing it just to ruin your day. They aren't hiding what they do and they haven't spent their leisure hours plotting to upset you. This kind of behavior is instinctual and genetically programmed into your Cat. They spray because it's their way of telling other cat that this spot is theirs. Call it a form of staking claim to ownership – ownership of your house. While they mean no harm and are operating innocently, this just can't happen inside, and you're getting mighty tired of Fluffy backing up to the new couch and letting fly.
Don't despair, there is a way to make this stop and it usually starts by making a few adjustments in your house.
Spraying or Urinating?
You might not care too much right now whether your Cat is spraying or urinating as all you know is you want it to stop. Well, you need to know if they are simply taking a pee or are really marking their territory. So take a look and see what is happening. If they're just taking a pee, they will be doing that in the usual manner, butt down in the litter box (or outside in a hole they dug for the same purpose).
If they're marking their space, they literally turn their backside to the object, back up, twitch the tail and take aim at a spot just about where another cat's nose would be if one were standing there. Cat urine contains pheromones (chemical substances) that give off certain messages. So it's either spraying or sending a clear "I'm ready to mate," signal. And, if you're wondering if all cats spray, the answer is yes they do, although it is more common in un-neutered males. As for intact females, they usually don't spray, but there have been instances where they leave a marker for a tom letting him know they are in heat.
This kind of behavior rarely happens if the kitten was fixed at about six months of age. Having said that though, being spayed/neutered is no guarantee that spraying won't happen later in life, as it is usually stress related. Stress can be due to a move, a new person in the house or a new animal added to the mix. And yes, males are the heaviest sprayers. If your cat is urinating on the floor, carpet, bedding, clothing lying about, this is not spraying. This is peeing where they should not pee, or inappropriate elimination. There are a couple of reasons why this may be happening, and the first one may be due to a bladder or urinary tract infection because of crystals that have formed in their urine. If they make pained sounds while doing this, head for the vet to get them checked out.
If you don’t think that's the problem, then you have a cat that is generally speaking "peed off" about something. This could also be because of several things such as rivalry for the affections of another cat or they totally have a hissy fit over another cat being in their space. Just because you may have a multi-cat house does not mean all cats get along together. They all have their own individual personalities.
The other problem could be litter box related. Cats are really fussy about having a clean box in a private place to do their business. They also like to have a spare box around somewhere in case the main one is too busy or doesn't smell like they want to use it. Litter boxes need to be cleaned on a regular basis and totally emptied at least once a week. This is sort of like a numbers game. If you have one cat, one box should suffice. Two cats, three boxes will work. Eight cats? Ideally four boxes, but you could squeak by with three that were cleaned religiously. Chances are though if the boxes are busy one of your brood will take exception to the toilet facilities and find an alternative spot (one you WON'T like). By the way, have you changed your brand of litter lately? Or moved the box? Felines are notoriously fussy about things being where they expect them to be and as they like them. If you have changed the brand of litter you use or moved the box, try putting things back the way they were and see what happens. It's a little like having a two-year old pitch a fit over having to eat peas isn't it?
How to Stop Spraying
The first thing you need to do is figure out if there is any kind of a pattern to your cat's spraying behavior. In other words, where is the cat spraying? In the same location – say right by the back screen door? Near patio doors that lead outside? This may mean there's been a visitor who left their own calling card and your feline is laying down a challenge and saying (spraying) "Bug off, this is my place". The easiest solution to something like this is to try and block access to the door/window and see if that makes any difference.
There are commercial sprays on the market that claim they will stop cats from spraying and really, all you can do is give them a try. Some of them may be effective and some of them may just encourage the behavior. But, before you try something like this, figure out why your Maine Coon Cat is spraying where they are spraying.
Castration is usually touted as the best route to stop this behavior, but as we have already read, it's not a hundred percent guarantee that the habit won't develop later in life. If you neuter after spraying has started, it usually acts to reduce the frequency. Here's a few statistics you might find interesting. It was apparently done on older cats and it said roughly 87 percent of all males stopped spraying after castration, 78 percent stopped right away, 9 percent stopped within a few months and 13 percent kept right on spraying. Well despite the numbers, castration/neutering has good odds going for it.
Another option, and one that many cat owners would rather not do, is put your cat on anxiolytics (anti-anxiety drugs) such as Clomicalm and Valium. Although they are used to treat spraying, many who have tried this route say their cats became zombies while on these drugs. If that isn't something you want to consider for your feline, then you may want to try the pheromone approach.
Using herbal therapies may be something else to contemplate as well. For instance one of the best-known remedies to calm pets is Rescue Remedy used approximately 2 to 3 times a day. It won't stop the spraying, but it may calm your cat and as a result reduce or stop the spraying.
Using pheromones is a natural approach rather than chemical. Feliway is a product you might be interested in trying. By all indications, it seems to work rather well by diffusing a placating pheromone into the air that conveys a sense of well being and safety to your Cat. You could also try orange or lemon oil on cotton balls, either placed in the areas they spray or wiped in those areas. Cats aren't particularly fond of either smell.
Another approach is something called SSSCAT that combines a motion detector and an aerosol can that spits out a harmless spray. The theory is that if this is repeated often enough it will keep you cat away from where they are spraying.
Or you might take a fancy to Scatmat that releases a harmless static pulse when your cat touches it. This works when your pet walks across the mat and small pulses of electricity move through wires in the vinyl emitting a small "zap". Your cat (or dog) will learn quickly to stay away from those areas.
If your cat always seems to let loose in one or two areas, change what that area is used for. This may divert his attention and the spraying will cease. For instance if you put food, bedding or a scratching post in the spots where your cat sprays, this may make them stop. Cats rarely spray in their sleeping, eating or scratching areas. There is the possibility they may move along to another spot, but once again, try diversion tactics.
And if all else fails, see if you can find "stud pants" or even a re-useable baby swim nappy and modify it to fit over the tail. Both these alternatives will allow the urine to pool in them.
18 ways to stop cat urine odour
Get rid of your cat urine odor problem once and for all!
You don't have to spend hundreds of dollars and hours of time cleaning cat puddles. You don't have to be angry with your kitty.
Here's 18 kitty-researched and cat-tested solutions.
I guarantee one going's to work for you.
Check out 18 ways to stop cat urine odour
You don't have to spend hundreds of dollars and hours of time cleaning cat puddles. You don't have to be angry with your kitty.
Here's 18 kitty-researched and cat-tested solutions.
I guarantee one going's to work for you.
Check out 18 ways to stop cat urine odour
Monday, 9 June 2008
Monday, 2 June 2008
The Most Popular Breeds of Cat, includes the Maine Coon Cat
The Most Popular Cat Breeds
The Five Most Popular Cat Breeds Today
Cat breeds can be as diverse and colorful as any other species of animal, and each type will come with its own unique look, characteristics and temperament. If you are thinking of adding a cat to your family, why not consider one of the most popular cat breeds today? There are plenty of gorgeous cats to choose from, but these five breeds have won over the hearts of more cat lovers than any others.
The Persian
It is no wonder why the Persian has been one of the most popular cat breeds for generations, with their beautiful thick coats and sweet, gentle dispositions. You can find Persians in a wide variety of colors, including black, grey, orange and the popular white. Persians originated in the country of their name, and are thought to go back at least as far as 1684 B.C., when hieroglyphics make reference to this animal.
The Siamese Cat
Siamese cats are another popular cat breed, and often the one that people think of most when they think felines. Siamese also come from the country of the same name, which is known as Thailand today. These cats have a very beautiful appearance and tend to be rather high maintenance creatures to own. They crave attention and will voice their displeasure when they don't get enough with their distinct cries.
The Maine Coon Cat
The Maine Coon is an ancient breed that is highly adaptable to a wide variety of climates and environments. This cat breed is considered to be the original American long-hair cat, and continues to be a popular choice for cat lovers today. The playful and pleasant nature of these cats makes them a good choice for families, including those with small children.
The Ragdoll
The popularity of this breed is undoubtedly due as much to its laid-back nature as it is to its beauty. Ragdolls can be more like dogs than cats at times, running to the door to greet you when you come home or enjoying a rousing game of fetch. These cats have medium-length coats that need some grooming to keep them looking their best. This cat breed is another great choice as a family pet, as long as it will be kept indoors.
The Burmese
The Burmese is another cat breed that likes people, making it a good companion for individuals and families. This is a short-haired breed that requires little or no grooming maintenance on the part of the owner. Burmese can use their voices like a Siamese cat will, but their cries tend to be on the softer side.
About the Author
Charlie Reese admires cats and researching cat Charliestory. In Charlies spare time he enjoys giving psychic readings and relationship advice.
The Five Most Popular Cat Breeds Today
Cat breeds can be as diverse and colorful as any other species of animal, and each type will come with its own unique look, characteristics and temperament. If you are thinking of adding a cat to your family, why not consider one of the most popular cat breeds today? There are plenty of gorgeous cats to choose from, but these five breeds have won over the hearts of more cat lovers than any others.
The Persian
It is no wonder why the Persian has been one of the most popular cat breeds for generations, with their beautiful thick coats and sweet, gentle dispositions. You can find Persians in a wide variety of colors, including black, grey, orange and the popular white. Persians originated in the country of their name, and are thought to go back at least as far as 1684 B.C., when hieroglyphics make reference to this animal.
The Siamese Cat
Siamese cats are another popular cat breed, and often the one that people think of most when they think felines. Siamese also come from the country of the same name, which is known as Thailand today. These cats have a very beautiful appearance and tend to be rather high maintenance creatures to own. They crave attention and will voice their displeasure when they don't get enough with their distinct cries.
The Maine Coon Cat
The Maine Coon is an ancient breed that is highly adaptable to a wide variety of climates and environments. This cat breed is considered to be the original American long-hair cat, and continues to be a popular choice for cat lovers today. The playful and pleasant nature of these cats makes them a good choice for families, including those with small children.
The Ragdoll
The popularity of this breed is undoubtedly due as much to its laid-back nature as it is to its beauty. Ragdolls can be more like dogs than cats at times, running to the door to greet you when you come home or enjoying a rousing game of fetch. These cats have medium-length coats that need some grooming to keep them looking their best. This cat breed is another great choice as a family pet, as long as it will be kept indoors.
The Burmese
The Burmese is another cat breed that likes people, making it a good companion for individuals and families. This is a short-haired breed that requires little or no grooming maintenance on the part of the owner. Burmese can use their voices like a Siamese cat will, but their cries tend to be on the softer side.
About the Author
Charlie Reese admires cats and researching cat Charliestory. In Charlies spare time he enjoys giving psychic readings and relationship advice.
Saturday, 31 May 2008
The cat spray woes!
The cat spray woes
Oh my, you've been there and done that haven't you? Especially if you happen to own a cat (pardon me – if they own you)! Spraying in the house is the number one behavior that is guaranteed to drive you right up the wall and right around the bend. It makes you just want to tear your hair out in frustration. There MUST be a way to stop this!
The Whys!
First let's look at why cats spray in the house in the first place. You probably know they're marking their territory, but honestly they aren't doing it just to ruin your day. They aren't hiding what they do and they haven't spent their leisure hours plotting to upset you. This kind of behavior is instinctual and genetically programmed into your Cat. They spray because it's their way of telling other cat that this spot is theirs. Call it a form of staking claim to ownership – ownership of your house. While they mean no harm and are operating innocently, this just can't happen inside, and you're getting mighty tired of Fluffy backing up to the new couch and letting fly.
Don't despair, there is a way to make this stop and it usually starts by making a few adjustments in your house.
Spraying or Urinating?
You might not care too much right now whether your Cat is spraying or urinating as all you know is you want it to stop. Well, you need to know if they are simply taking a pee or are really marking their territory. So take a look and see what is happening. If they're just taking a pee, they will be doing that in the usual manner, butt down in the litter box (or outside in a hole they dug for the same purpose).
If they're marking their space, they literally turn their backside to the object, back up, twitch the tail and take aim at a spot just about where another cat's nose would be if one were standing there. Cat urine contains pheromones (chemical substances) that give off certain messages. So it's either spraying or sending a clear "I'm ready to mate," signal. And, if you're wondering if all cats spray, the answer is yes they do, although it is more common in un-neutered males. As for intact females, they usually don't spray, but there have been instances where they leave a marker for a tom letting him know they are in heat.
This kind of behavior rarely happens if the kitten was fixed at about six months of age. Having said that though, being spayed/neutered is no guarantee that spraying won't happen later in life, as it is usually stress related. Stress can be due to a move, a new person in the house or a new animal added to the mix. And yes, males are the heaviest sprayers. If your cat is urinating on the floor, carpet, bedding, clothing lying about, this is not spraying. This is peeing where they should not pee, or inappropriate elimination. There are a couple of reasons why this may be happening, and the first one may be due to a bladder or urinary tract infection because of crystals that have formed in their urine. If they make pained sounds while doing this, head for the vet to get them checked out.
If you don’t think that's the problem, then you have a cat that is generally speaking "peed off" about something. This could also be because of several things such as rivalry for the affections of another cat or they totally have a hissy fit over another cat being in their space. Just because you may have a multi-cat house does not mean all cats get along together. They all have their own individual personalities.
The other problem could be litter box related. Cats are really fussy about having a clean box in a private place to do their business. They also like to have a spare box around somewhere in case the main one is too busy or doesn't smell like they want to use it. Litter boxes need to be cleaned on a regular basis and totally emptied at least once a week. This is sort of like a numbers game. If you have one cat, one box should suffice. Two cats, three boxes will work. Eight cats? Ideally four boxes, but you could squeak by with three that were cleaned religiously. Chances are though if the boxes are busy one of your brood will take exception to the toilet facilities and find an alternative spot (one you WON'T like). By the way, have you changed your brand of litter lately? Or moved the box? Felines are notoriously fussy about things being where they expect them to be and as they like them. If you have changed the brand of litter you use or moved the box, try putting things back the way they were and see what happens. It's a little like having a two-year old pitch a fit over having to eat peas isn't it?
How to Stop Spraying
The first thing you need to do is figure out if there is any kind of a pattern to your cat's spraying behavior. In other words, where is the cat spraying? In the same location – say right by the back screen door? Near patio doors that lead outside? This may mean there's been a visitor who left their own calling card and your feline is laying down a challenge and saying (spraying) "Bug off, this is my place". The easiest solution to something like this is to try and block access to the door/window and see if that makes any difference.
There are commercial sprays on the market that claim they will stop cats from spraying and really, all you can do is give them a try. Some of them may be effective and some of them may just encourage the behavior. But, before you try something like this, figure out why your Maine Coon Cat is spraying where they are spraying.
Castration is usually touted as the best route to stop this behavior, but as we have already read, it's not a hundred percent guarantee that the habit won't develop later in life. If you neuter after spraying has started, it usually acts to reduce the frequency. Here's a few statistics you might find interesting. It was apparently done on older cats and it said roughly 87 percent of all males stopped spraying after castration, 78 percent stopped right away, 9 percent stopped within a few months and 13 percent kept right on spraying. Well despite the numbers, castration/neutering has good odds going for it.
Another option, and one that many cat owners would rather not do, is put your cat on anxiolytics (anti-anxiety drugs) such as Clomicalm and Valium. Although they are used to treat spraying, many who have tried this route say their cats became zombies while on these drugs. If that isn't something you want to consider for your feline, then you may want to try the pheromone approach.
Using herbal therapies may be something else to contemplate as well. For instance one of the best-known remedies to calm pets is Rescue Remedy used approximately 2 to 3 times a day. It won't stop the spraying, but it may calm your cat and as a result reduce or stop the spraying.
Using pheromones is a natural approach rather than chemical. Feliway is a product you might be interested in trying. By all indications, it seems to work rather well by diffusing a placating pheromone into the air that conveys a sense of well being and safety to your Cat. You could also try orange or lemon oil on cotton balls, either placed in the areas they spray or wiped in those areas. Cats aren't particularly fond of either smell.
Another approach is something called SSSCAT that combines a motion detector and an aerosol can that spits out a harmless spray. The theory is that if this is repeated often enough it will keep you cat away from where they are spraying.
Or you might take a fancy to Scatmat that releases a harmless static pulse when your cat touches it. This works when your pet walks across the mat and small pulses of electricity move through wires in the vinyl emitting a small "zap". Your cat (or dog) will learn quickly to stay away from those areas.
If your Maine Coon Cat always seems to let loose in one or two areas, change what that area is used for. This may divert his attention and the spraying will cease. For instance if you put food, bedding or a scratching post in the spots where your cat sprays, this may make them stop. Cats rarely spray in their sleeping, eating or scratching areas. There is the possibility they may move along to another spot, but once again, try diversion tactics.
And if all else fails, see if you can find "stud pants" or even a re-useable baby swim nappy and modify it to fit over the tail. Both these alternatives will allow the urine to pool in them.
How to Clean the Mess
Clean the areas with alcohol. Do not use bleach because bleach has ammonia in it and that is the primary component of urine and will only encourage them to re-offend. Or you can use laundry detergent with enzymes. Then use 50% white vinegar and 50% water in a spray bottle and spray the area.
For carpets use baking soda, white vinegar (the acid neutralizes the ammonia in cat pee), and warm water. Here's how this one works. Use paper towels to get as much urine as you can up from the carpet. Keep doing that until you hardly get any moisture up. Wet the area with 50/50 white vinegar/warm water- enough to get down to the carpet backing. Sprinkle with baking soda and let it foam. Now let it dry to a hard surface. Then vacuum up the spot.
If you have enjoyed this article about spaying and your Maine Coon Cat then please feel free to reprint it as it is. This resource box must be included with the article. Please visit to my blog at www.world-of-maine-coon-cats.blogspot.com.
Oh my, you've been there and done that haven't you? Especially if you happen to own a cat (pardon me – if they own you)! Spraying in the house is the number one behavior that is guaranteed to drive you right up the wall and right around the bend. It makes you just want to tear your hair out in frustration. There MUST be a way to stop this!
The Whys!
First let's look at why cats spray in the house in the first place. You probably know they're marking their territory, but honestly they aren't doing it just to ruin your day. They aren't hiding what they do and they haven't spent their leisure hours plotting to upset you. This kind of behavior is instinctual and genetically programmed into your Cat. They spray because it's their way of telling other cat that this spot is theirs. Call it a form of staking claim to ownership – ownership of your house. While they mean no harm and are operating innocently, this just can't happen inside, and you're getting mighty tired of Fluffy backing up to the new couch and letting fly.
Don't despair, there is a way to make this stop and it usually starts by making a few adjustments in your house.
Spraying or Urinating?
You might not care too much right now whether your Cat is spraying or urinating as all you know is you want it to stop. Well, you need to know if they are simply taking a pee or are really marking their territory. So take a look and see what is happening. If they're just taking a pee, they will be doing that in the usual manner, butt down in the litter box (or outside in a hole they dug for the same purpose).
If they're marking their space, they literally turn their backside to the object, back up, twitch the tail and take aim at a spot just about where another cat's nose would be if one were standing there. Cat urine contains pheromones (chemical substances) that give off certain messages. So it's either spraying or sending a clear "I'm ready to mate," signal. And, if you're wondering if all cats spray, the answer is yes they do, although it is more common in un-neutered males. As for intact females, they usually don't spray, but there have been instances where they leave a marker for a tom letting him know they are in heat.
This kind of behavior rarely happens if the kitten was fixed at about six months of age. Having said that though, being spayed/neutered is no guarantee that spraying won't happen later in life, as it is usually stress related. Stress can be due to a move, a new person in the house or a new animal added to the mix. And yes, males are the heaviest sprayers. If your cat is urinating on the floor, carpet, bedding, clothing lying about, this is not spraying. This is peeing where they should not pee, or inappropriate elimination. There are a couple of reasons why this may be happening, and the first one may be due to a bladder or urinary tract infection because of crystals that have formed in their urine. If they make pained sounds while doing this, head for the vet to get them checked out.
If you don’t think that's the problem, then you have a cat that is generally speaking "peed off" about something. This could also be because of several things such as rivalry for the affections of another cat or they totally have a hissy fit over another cat being in their space. Just because you may have a multi-cat house does not mean all cats get along together. They all have their own individual personalities.
The other problem could be litter box related. Cats are really fussy about having a clean box in a private place to do their business. They also like to have a spare box around somewhere in case the main one is too busy or doesn't smell like they want to use it. Litter boxes need to be cleaned on a regular basis and totally emptied at least once a week. This is sort of like a numbers game. If you have one cat, one box should suffice. Two cats, three boxes will work. Eight cats? Ideally four boxes, but you could squeak by with three that were cleaned religiously. Chances are though if the boxes are busy one of your brood will take exception to the toilet facilities and find an alternative spot (one you WON'T like). By the way, have you changed your brand of litter lately? Or moved the box? Felines are notoriously fussy about things being where they expect them to be and as they like them. If you have changed the brand of litter you use or moved the box, try putting things back the way they were and see what happens. It's a little like having a two-year old pitch a fit over having to eat peas isn't it?
How to Stop Spraying
The first thing you need to do is figure out if there is any kind of a pattern to your cat's spraying behavior. In other words, where is the cat spraying? In the same location – say right by the back screen door? Near patio doors that lead outside? This may mean there's been a visitor who left their own calling card and your feline is laying down a challenge and saying (spraying) "Bug off, this is my place". The easiest solution to something like this is to try and block access to the door/window and see if that makes any difference.
There are commercial sprays on the market that claim they will stop cats from spraying and really, all you can do is give them a try. Some of them may be effective and some of them may just encourage the behavior. But, before you try something like this, figure out why your Maine Coon Cat is spraying where they are spraying.
Castration is usually touted as the best route to stop this behavior, but as we have already read, it's not a hundred percent guarantee that the habit won't develop later in life. If you neuter after spraying has started, it usually acts to reduce the frequency. Here's a few statistics you might find interesting. It was apparently done on older cats and it said roughly 87 percent of all males stopped spraying after castration, 78 percent stopped right away, 9 percent stopped within a few months and 13 percent kept right on spraying. Well despite the numbers, castration/neutering has good odds going for it.
Another option, and one that many cat owners would rather not do, is put your cat on anxiolytics (anti-anxiety drugs) such as Clomicalm and Valium. Although they are used to treat spraying, many who have tried this route say their cats became zombies while on these drugs. If that isn't something you want to consider for your feline, then you may want to try the pheromone approach.
Using herbal therapies may be something else to contemplate as well. For instance one of the best-known remedies to calm pets is Rescue Remedy used approximately 2 to 3 times a day. It won't stop the spraying, but it may calm your cat and as a result reduce or stop the spraying.
Using pheromones is a natural approach rather than chemical. Feliway is a product you might be interested in trying. By all indications, it seems to work rather well by diffusing a placating pheromone into the air that conveys a sense of well being and safety to your Cat. You could also try orange or lemon oil on cotton balls, either placed in the areas they spray or wiped in those areas. Cats aren't particularly fond of either smell.
Another approach is something called SSSCAT that combines a motion detector and an aerosol can that spits out a harmless spray. The theory is that if this is repeated often enough it will keep you cat away from where they are spraying.
Or you might take a fancy to Scatmat that releases a harmless static pulse when your cat touches it. This works when your pet walks across the mat and small pulses of electricity move through wires in the vinyl emitting a small "zap". Your cat (or dog) will learn quickly to stay away from those areas.
If your Maine Coon Cat always seems to let loose in one or two areas, change what that area is used for. This may divert his attention and the spraying will cease. For instance if you put food, bedding or a scratching post in the spots where your cat sprays, this may make them stop. Cats rarely spray in their sleeping, eating or scratching areas. There is the possibility they may move along to another spot, but once again, try diversion tactics.
And if all else fails, see if you can find "stud pants" or even a re-useable baby swim nappy and modify it to fit over the tail. Both these alternatives will allow the urine to pool in them.
How to Clean the Mess
Clean the areas with alcohol. Do not use bleach because bleach has ammonia in it and that is the primary component of urine and will only encourage them to re-offend. Or you can use laundry detergent with enzymes. Then use 50% white vinegar and 50% water in a spray bottle and spray the area.
For carpets use baking soda, white vinegar (the acid neutralizes the ammonia in cat pee), and warm water. Here's how this one works. Use paper towels to get as much urine as you can up from the carpet. Keep doing that until you hardly get any moisture up. Wet the area with 50/50 white vinegar/warm water- enough to get down to the carpet backing. Sprinkle with baking soda and let it foam. Now let it dry to a hard surface. Then vacuum up the spot.
If you have enjoyed this article about spaying and your Maine Coon Cat then please feel free to reprint it as it is. This resource box must be included with the article. Please visit to my blog at www.world-of-maine-coon-cats.blogspot.com.
Thursday, 29 May 2008
Maine Coon Cats and old age
Maine Coon Cats and old Age
Caring for you old friend
To help your cat enjoy it’s old age there are many things that you can alter to help.
Feeding
As your cat ages his body will change and he may no longer be able to eat the same food he did as a youngster. He may have difficulty eating certain foods or his body may not digest food as easily as it did.
You can now purchase specially formulated senior cat food that has been tailored to an older cats dietary requirements and is softer, more easily eaten and absorbed.
Dental
As a younger cat he will maintained his own teeth by chewing and eating hard foods, such as cat biscuits, however, as he gets older this will become increasingly difficult for him to accomplish.
Now that your cat is old I would not recommend that you attempt any form of dental care and cleaning yourself because you may further increase any problems.
If you notice your cat having difficulties arrange an appointment with your vet for a check up and clean, he will do a professional job without distress being caused to your cat.
Grooming
Your cat will become less supple as he ages, he will no longer be able to groom himself as he once did. He cannot reach into those difficult areas.
He will need your gentle help on a more regular basis to groom him and keep him looking and feeling good.
Claws
Your cat will no longer be able to scratch as he once did and because of this he will need your help to remove the old claw.
Normally the scratching will remove the outer nail but once he is unable to do this it may grow round and into the pads of his paws.
You need to keep a watchful eye on him and check him regularly to make sure he is not suffering from any discomfort.
He will also have difficulty in retracting his claws and sometimes get them stuck into carpet or furniture. Be gentle with him and help him pull them out of any items to which he becomes attached.
Mobility
Joint pain and immobility is very common in older cats and it will be noticeable when your cat starts having problems getting onto the couch or is about as graceful as a sack of potatoes as he leaps down from a height.
When you notice these problems contact your vet because there are some fantastic medications that can ease his discomfort.
He will not regain his previous grace and poise but will retain his dignity and be comfortable as he moves around.
Caring for you old friend
To help your cat enjoy it’s old age there are many things that you can alter to help.
Feeding
As your cat ages his body will change and he may no longer be able to eat the same food he did as a youngster. He may have difficulty eating certain foods or his body may not digest food as easily as it did.
You can now purchase specially formulated senior cat food that has been tailored to an older cats dietary requirements and is softer, more easily eaten and absorbed.
Dental
As a younger cat he will maintained his own teeth by chewing and eating hard foods, such as cat biscuits, however, as he gets older this will become increasingly difficult for him to accomplish.
Now that your cat is old I would not recommend that you attempt any form of dental care and cleaning yourself because you may further increase any problems.
If you notice your cat having difficulties arrange an appointment with your vet for a check up and clean, he will do a professional job without distress being caused to your cat.
Grooming
Your cat will become less supple as he ages, he will no longer be able to groom himself as he once did. He cannot reach into those difficult areas.
He will need your gentle help on a more regular basis to groom him and keep him looking and feeling good.
Claws
Your cat will no longer be able to scratch as he once did and because of this he will need your help to remove the old claw.
Normally the scratching will remove the outer nail but once he is unable to do this it may grow round and into the pads of his paws.
You need to keep a watchful eye on him and check him regularly to make sure he is not suffering from any discomfort.
He will also have difficulty in retracting his claws and sometimes get them stuck into carpet or furniture. Be gentle with him and help him pull them out of any items to which he becomes attached.
Mobility
Joint pain and immobility is very common in older cats and it will be noticeable when your cat starts having problems getting onto the couch or is about as graceful as a sack of potatoes as he leaps down from a height.
When you notice these problems contact your vet because there are some fantastic medications that can ease his discomfort.
He will not regain his previous grace and poise but will retain his dignity and be comfortable as he moves around.
Sunday, 25 May 2008
A history of the Maine Coon Cat
A History of the Maine Coon Cat
The Maine Coon has a really rich and colorful history that many people don't always take the time to appreciate. They are said to be the oldest "natural" (meaning bred without selective interference) breed in North America and are considered to be native to the state of Maine. Did you know the Maine Coon cat is actually the official Maine State cat? They were also known to be the darlings of the rural world where they dominated in the vermin-hunting arena. Many a farmer was mightily impressed with their hunting skills.
Where did this stupendously attractive and intelligent puss come from in the first place? There are many theories, myths and other forms of speculation that never really get right to the bottom of their origin. The most famous myth being the Maine Coon cat is called that because it mated with a raccoon. Not! It is just not physically possible for that to happen. However you can see by looking at the cat's lovely, luxurious coon like tail and their usual coloring (striped like a raccoon and brown) why the myth got started in the first place. Once upon a time only the brown fellows were called Maine Coon cats. Others were referred to as Maine Shags, mainly due to their rugged coats.
As far as myths go there is another one floating around that has Marie Antoinette sending six cats to Wiscasset, Maine prior to trying to flee France during the Revolution. Interesting story, but not likely true either. Most breeders are firmly convinced that the Maine Coon cat is the result of breeding between shorthaired domestic felines and longhairs that arrived in the country from overseas. How did the longhairs get here? The story goes the longhairs were introduced to America by the Vikings. And, if you look at Norwegian Forest cats, you might just agree with that theory. But it would also make sense if New England seamen introduced the shorthairs to the longhairs.
As delightful as the myths may be, what seems to be the most important point is the Maine Coon cat has a venerable show history. In fact, as far back as 1861 Maine Coons were much admired show competitors in New York and Boston. These darlings of the show world lost favor when their longhaired competitors, the Persians came onto the scene. Knocked off their popularity perch in the 1900's Maine Coons didn't come back into vogue until the 1950's when they hit the show circuit with a vengeance and their pedigrees started being documented.
It wasn't until 1968 that an association was formed to preserve and protect the Maine Coon cat breed. So thanks to a handful of breeders the Maine Coon Breeders and Fanciers Association was born with one of its tasks being to promote recognition for this breed. They did a remarkable job and the cat was firmly ensconced in all registries across the United States.
Of interest is a recent development in the Maine Coon cat world, planned breeding. This is interesting because once this task was solely left up to the auspices of Mother Nature. Planned breeding can also mean breeding to rule out or include particular traits. Having said that, rest easy, as the breed is being preserved for its original qualities, and one of those particular qualities is its natural ruggedness.
This is one strong and really healthy feline that has remained untouched in appearance since its beginnings. In fact there are some who would likely mistake them for moggies, but on an up close and personal inspection would realize their mistake. Moggies or mog usually refers to cats of an undistinguished type, sort of like a Heinz 57 dog. It is also an affectionate term of endearment for domesticated cats.
No matter what you choose to call your Maine Coon cat, always refer to it as exceedingly special, for they are. These delightful creatures can steal your heart away with just one glance, and if you only have one Maine Coon, you will soon have more.
If you have enjoyed this article about grooming your Maine Coon Cat then please feel free to reprint it as it is. This resource box must be included with the article. Please visit my blog at www.world-of-maine-coon-cats.blogspot.com.
The Maine Coon has a really rich and colorful history that many people don't always take the time to appreciate. They are said to be the oldest "natural" (meaning bred without selective interference) breed in North America and are considered to be native to the state of Maine. Did you know the Maine Coon cat is actually the official Maine State cat? They were also known to be the darlings of the rural world where they dominated in the vermin-hunting arena. Many a farmer was mightily impressed with their hunting skills.
Where did this stupendously attractive and intelligent puss come from in the first place? There are many theories, myths and other forms of speculation that never really get right to the bottom of their origin. The most famous myth being the Maine Coon cat is called that because it mated with a raccoon. Not! It is just not physically possible for that to happen. However you can see by looking at the cat's lovely, luxurious coon like tail and their usual coloring (striped like a raccoon and brown) why the myth got started in the first place. Once upon a time only the brown fellows were called Maine Coon cats. Others were referred to as Maine Shags, mainly due to their rugged coats.
As far as myths go there is another one floating around that has Marie Antoinette sending six cats to Wiscasset, Maine prior to trying to flee France during the Revolution. Interesting story, but not likely true either. Most breeders are firmly convinced that the Maine Coon cat is the result of breeding between shorthaired domestic felines and longhairs that arrived in the country from overseas. How did the longhairs get here? The story goes the longhairs were introduced to America by the Vikings. And, if you look at Norwegian Forest cats, you might just agree with that theory. But it would also make sense if New England seamen introduced the shorthairs to the longhairs.
As delightful as the myths may be, what seems to be the most important point is the Maine Coon cat has a venerable show history. In fact, as far back as 1861 Maine Coons were much admired show competitors in New York and Boston. These darlings of the show world lost favor when their longhaired competitors, the Persians came onto the scene. Knocked off their popularity perch in the 1900's Maine Coons didn't come back into vogue until the 1950's when they hit the show circuit with a vengeance and their pedigrees started being documented.
It wasn't until 1968 that an association was formed to preserve and protect the Maine Coon cat breed. So thanks to a handful of breeders the Maine Coon Breeders and Fanciers Association was born with one of its tasks being to promote recognition for this breed. They did a remarkable job and the cat was firmly ensconced in all registries across the United States.
Of interest is a recent development in the Maine Coon cat world, planned breeding. This is interesting because once this task was solely left up to the auspices of Mother Nature. Planned breeding can also mean breeding to rule out or include particular traits. Having said that, rest easy, as the breed is being preserved for its original qualities, and one of those particular qualities is its natural ruggedness.
This is one strong and really healthy feline that has remained untouched in appearance since its beginnings. In fact there are some who would likely mistake them for moggies, but on an up close and personal inspection would realize their mistake. Moggies or mog usually refers to cats of an undistinguished type, sort of like a Heinz 57 dog. It is also an affectionate term of endearment for domesticated cats.
No matter what you choose to call your Maine Coon cat, always refer to it as exceedingly special, for they are. These delightful creatures can steal your heart away with just one glance, and if you only have one Maine Coon, you will soon have more.
If you have enjoyed this article about grooming your Maine Coon Cat then please feel free to reprint it as it is. This resource box must be included with the article. Please visit my blog at www.world-of-maine-coon-cats.blogspot.com.
Wednesday, 21 May 2008
Information about Maine Coon Cat Colour
Maine Coon Cat Colour Information
Maine Coon Cats have over 60 recognised colours, there are a number of main colours which are then broken down in to many different sub colours.
The Maine Coon Colours recognised by most fanciers and breeders clubs are;
Tabbies - swirls of pattern on the body
Mackeral tabby - swirls of pattern on the body with silver tone
Solid - a cat of one single colour
Tortoiseshell - Patches and shades of colours
Smokes - Same as a solid except with a different colour undercoat
Shaded - prominant undercoat that dominates the top coat
Bi colour - Has one colour from above but has dominant areas of white eg, legs or tummy
Parti colour - Has two colours from above but has dominant areas of white
Whatever colour of Maine Coon Cat you are lucky enought o own they are all incredibly beautiful.
Maine Coon Cats have over 60 recognised colours, there are a number of main colours which are then broken down in to many different sub colours.
The Maine Coon Colours recognised by most fanciers and breeders clubs are;
Tabbies - swirls of pattern on the body
Mackeral tabby - swirls of pattern on the body with silver tone
Solid - a cat of one single colour
Tortoiseshell - Patches and shades of colours
Smokes - Same as a solid except with a different colour undercoat
Shaded - prominant undercoat that dominates the top coat
Bi colour - Has one colour from above but has dominant areas of white eg, legs or tummy
Parti colour - Has two colours from above but has dominant areas of white
Whatever colour of Maine Coon Cat you are lucky enought o own they are all incredibly beautiful.
Cat Maine Coon
Cat Maine Coon - World of Maine Coon Cats
Welcome to the World of Maine Coon Cats, this blog is full of information that you need to know about your Maine Coon Cat.
If you own a Maine Coon Cat then this is the blog for you, add it to your favorites and return often, it will be updated on a regular basis, if you want to know something about your Maine Coon Cat then post your question on the blog and hopefully it will be answered.
Welcome to the World of Maine Coon Cats, this blog is full of information that you need to know about your Maine Coon Cat.
If you own a Maine Coon Cat then this is the blog for you, add it to your favorites and return often, it will be updated on a regular basis, if you want to know something about your Maine Coon Cat then post your question on the blog and hopefully it will be answered.
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