Dealing with the cat spray woes!

The cat spray woes
Oh my, you've been there and done that haven't you? Especially if you happen to own a cat (pardon me – if they own you)! Spraying in the house is the number one behavior that is guaranteed to drive you right up the wall and right around the bend. It makes you just want to tear your hair out in frustration. There MUST be a way to stop this!
The Whys!
First let's look at why cats spray in the house in the first place. You probably know they're marking their territory, but honestly they aren't doing it just to ruin your day. They aren't hiding what they do and they haven't spent their leisure hours plotting to upset you. This kind of behavior is instinctual and genetically programmed into your Cat. They spray because it's their way of telling other cat that this spot is theirs. Call it a form of staking claim to ownership – ownership of your house. While they mean no harm and are operating innocently, this just can't happen inside, and you're getting mighty tired of Fluffy backing up to the new couch and letting fly.
Don't despair, there is a way to make this stop and it usually starts by making a few adjustments in your house.
Spraying or Urinating?
You might not care too much right now whether your Cat is spraying or urinating as all you know is you want it to stop. Well, you need to know if they are simply taking a pee or are really marking their territory. So take a look and see what is happening. If they're just taking a pee, they will be doing that in the usual manner, butt down in the litter box (or outside in a hole they dug for the same purpose).
If they're marking their space, they literally turn their backside to the object, back up, twitch the tail and take aim at a spot just about where another cat's nose would be if one were standing there. Cat urine contains pheromones (chemical substances) that give off certain messages. So it's either spraying or sending a clear "I'm ready to mate," signal. And, if you're wondering if all cats spray, the answer is yes they do, although it is more common in un-neutered males. As for intact females, they usually don't spray, but there have been instances where they leave a marker for a tom letting him know they are in heat.
This kind of behavior rarely happens if the kitten was fixed at about six months of age. Having said that though, being spayed/neutered is no guarantee that spraying won't happen later in life, as it is usually stress related. Stress can be due to a move, a new person in the house or a new animal added to the mix. And yes, males are the heaviest sprayers. If your cat is urinating on the floor, carpet, bedding, clothing lying about, this is not spraying. This is peeing where they should not pee, or inappropriate elimination. There are a couple of reasons why this may be happening, and the first one may be due to a bladder or urinary tract infection because of crystals that have formed in their urine. If they make pained sounds while doing this, head for the vet to get them checked out.
If you don’t think that's the problem, then you have a cat that is generally speaking "peed off" about something. This could also be because of several things such as rivalry for the affections of another cat or they totally have a hissy fit over another cat being in their space. Just because you may have a multi-cat house does not mean all cats get along together. They all have their own individual personalities.
The other problem could be litter box related. Cats are really fussy about having a clean box in a private place to do their business. They also like to have a spare box around somewhere in case the main one is too busy or doesn't smell like they want to use it. Litter boxes need to be cleaned on a regular basis and totally emptied at least once a week. This is sort of like a numbers game. If you have one cat, one box should suffice. Two cats, three boxes will work. Eight cats? Ideally four boxes, but you could squeak by with three that were cleaned religiously. Chances are though if the boxes are busy one of your brood will take exception to the toilet facilities and find an alternative spot (one you WON'T like). By the way, have you changed your brand of litter lately? Or moved the box? Felines are notoriously fussy about things being where they expect them to be and as they like them. If you have changed the brand of litter you use or moved the box, try putting things back the way they were and see what happens. It's a little like having a two-year old pitch a fit over having to eat peas isn't it?
How to Stop Spraying
The first thing you need to do is figure out if there is any kind of a pattern to your cat's spraying behavior. In other words, where is the cat spraying? In the same location – say right by the back screen door? Near patio doors that lead outside? This may mean there's been a visitor who left their own calling card and your feline is laying down a challenge and saying (spraying) "Bug off, this is my place". The easiest solution to something like this is to try and block access to the door/window and see if that makes any difference.
There are commercial sprays on the market that claim they will stop cats from spraying and really, all you can do is give them a try. Some of them may be effective and some of them may just encourage the behavior. But, before you try something like this, figure out why your Maine Coon Cat is spraying where they are spraying.
Castration is usually touted as the best route to stop this behavior, but as we have already read, it's not a hundred percent guarantee that the habit won't develop later in life. If you neuter after spraying has started, it usually acts to reduce the frequency. Here's a few statistics you might find interesting. It was apparently done on older cats and it said roughly 87 percent of all males stopped spraying after castration, 78 percent stopped right away, 9 percent stopped within a few months and 13 percent kept right on spraying. Well despite the numbers, castration/neutering has good odds going for it.
Another option, and one that many cat owners would rather not do, is put your cat on anxiolytics (anti-anxiety drugs) such as Clomicalm and Valium. Although they are used to treat spraying, many who have tried this route say their cats became zombies while on these drugs. If that isn't something you want to consider for your feline, then you may want to try the pheromone approach.
Using herbal therapies may be something else to contemplate as well. For instance one of the best-known remedies to calm pets is Rescue Remedy used approximately 2 to 3 times a day. It won't stop the spraying, but it may calm your cat and as a result reduce or stop the spraying.
Using pheromones is a natural approach rather than chemical. Feliway is a product you might be interested in trying. By all indications, it seems to work rather well by diffusing a placating pheromone into the air that conveys a sense of well being and safety to your Cat. You could also try orange or lemon oil on cotton balls, either placed in the areas they spray or wiped in those areas. Cats aren't particularly fond of either smell.
Another approach is something called SSSCAT that combines a motion detector and an aerosol can that spits out a harmless spray. The theory is that if this is repeated often enough it will keep you cat away from where they are spraying.
Or you might take a fancy to Scatmat that releases a harmless static pulse when your cat touches it. This works when your pet walks across the mat and small pulses of electricity move through wires in the vinyl emitting a small "zap". Your cat (or dog) will learn quickly to stay away from those areas.

If your cat always seems to let loose in one or two areas, change what that area is used for. This may divert his attention and the spraying will cease. For instance if you put food, bedding or a scratching post in the spots where your cat sprays, this may make them stop. Cats rarely spray in their sleeping, eating or scratching areas. There is the possibility they may move along to another spot, but once again, try diversion tactics.

And if all else fails, see if you can find "stud pants" or even a re-useable baby swim nappy and modify it to fit over the tail. Both these alternatives will allow the urine to pool in them.

The Most Popular Breeds of Cat, includes the Maine Coon Cat

The Most Popular Cat Breeds

The Five Most Popular Cat Breeds Today

Cat breeds can be as diverse and colorful as any other species of animal, and each type will come with its own unique look, characteristics and temperament. If you are thinking of adding a cat to your family, why not consider one of the most popular cat breeds today? There are plenty of gorgeous cats to choose from, but these five breeds have won over the hearts of more cat lovers than any others.
The Persian
It is no wonder why the Persian has been one of the most popular cat breeds for generations, with their beautiful thick coats and sweet, gentle dispositions. You can find Persians in a wide variety of colors, including black, grey, orange and the popular white. Persians originated in the country of their name, and are thought to go back at least as far as 1684 B.C., when hieroglyphics make reference to this animal.
The Siamese Cat
Siamese cats are another popular cat breed, and often the one that people think of most when they think felines. Siamese also come from the country of the same name, which is known as Thailand today. These cats have a very beautiful appearance and tend to be rather high maintenance creatures to own. They crave attention and will voice their displeasure when they don't get enough with their distinct cries.
The Maine Coon Cat
The Maine Coon is an ancient breed that is highly adaptable to a wide variety of climates and environments. This cat breed is considered to be the original American long-hair cat, and continues to be a popular choice for cat lovers today. The playful and pleasant nature of these cats makes them a good choice for families, including those with small children.
The Ragdoll
The popularity of this breed is undoubtedly due as much to its laid-back nature as it is to its beauty. Ragdolls can be more like dogs than cats at times, running to the door to greet you when you come home or enjoying a rousing game of fetch. These cats have medium-length coats that need some grooming to keep them looking their best. This cat breed is another great choice as a family pet, as long as it will be kept indoors.
The Burmese
The Burmese is another cat breed that likes people, making it a good companion for individuals and families. This is a short-haired breed that requires little or no grooming maintenance on the part of the owner. Burmese can use their voices like a Siamese cat will, but their cries tend to be on the softer side.
About the Author

Charlie Reese admires cats and researching cat Charliestory. In Charlies spare time he enjoys giving psychic readings and relationship advice.

The cat spray woes!

The cat spray woes
Oh my, you've been there and done that haven't you? Especially if you happen to own a cat (pardon me – if they own you)! Spraying in the house is the number one behavior that is guaranteed to drive you right up the wall and right around the bend. It makes you just want to tear your hair out in frustration. There MUST be a way to stop this!
The Whys!
First let's look at why cats spray in the house in the first place. You probably know they're marking their territory, but honestly they aren't doing it just to ruin your day. They aren't hiding what they do and they haven't spent their leisure hours plotting to upset you. This kind of behavior is instinctual and genetically programmed into your Cat. They spray because it's their way of telling other cat that this spot is theirs. Call it a form of staking claim to ownership – ownership of your house. While they mean no harm and are operating innocently, this just can't happen inside, and you're getting mighty tired of Fluffy backing up to the new couch and letting fly.
Don't despair, there is a way to make this stop and it usually starts by making a few adjustments in your house.
Spraying or Urinating?
You might not care too much right now whether your Cat is spraying or urinating as all you know is you want it to stop. Well, you need to know if they are simply taking a pee or are really marking their territory. So take a look and see what is happening. If they're just taking a pee, they will be doing that in the usual manner, butt down in the litter box (or outside in a hole they dug for the same purpose).
If they're marking their space, they literally turn their backside to the object, back up, twitch the tail and take aim at a spot just about where another cat's nose would be if one were standing there. Cat urine contains pheromones (chemical substances) that give off certain messages. So it's either spraying or sending a clear "I'm ready to mate," signal. And, if you're wondering if all cats spray, the answer is yes they do, although it is more common in un-neutered males. As for intact females, they usually don't spray, but there have been instances where they leave a marker for a tom letting him know they are in heat.
This kind of behavior rarely happens if the kitten was fixed at about six months of age. Having said that though, being spayed/neutered is no guarantee that spraying won't happen later in life, as it is usually stress related. Stress can be due to a move, a new person in the house or a new animal added to the mix. And yes, males are the heaviest sprayers. If your cat is urinating on the floor, carpet, bedding, clothing lying about, this is not spraying. This is peeing where they should not pee, or inappropriate elimination. There are a couple of reasons why this may be happening, and the first one may be due to a bladder or urinary tract infection because of crystals that have formed in their urine. If they make pained sounds while doing this, head for the vet to get them checked out.
If you don’t think that's the problem, then you have a cat that is generally speaking "peed off" about something. This could also be because of several things such as rivalry for the affections of another cat or they totally have a hissy fit over another cat being in their space. Just because you may have a multi-cat house does not mean all cats get along together. They all have their own individual personalities.
The other problem could be litter box related. Cats are really fussy about having a clean box in a private place to do their business. They also like to have a spare box around somewhere in case the main one is too busy or doesn't smell like they want to use it. Litter boxes need to be cleaned on a regular basis and totally emptied at least once a week. This is sort of like a numbers game. If you have one cat, one box should suffice. Two cats, three boxes will work. Eight cats? Ideally four boxes, but you could squeak by with three that were cleaned religiously. Chances are though if the boxes are busy one of your brood will take exception to the toilet facilities and find an alternative spot (one you WON'T like). By the way, have you changed your brand of litter lately? Or moved the box? Felines are notoriously fussy about things being where they expect them to be and as they like them. If you have changed the brand of litter you use or moved the box, try putting things back the way they were and see what happens. It's a little like having a two-year old pitch a fit over having to eat peas isn't it?
How to Stop Spraying
The first thing you need to do is figure out if there is any kind of a pattern to your cat's spraying behavior. In other words, where is the cat spraying? In the same location – say right by the back screen door? Near patio doors that lead outside? This may mean there's been a visitor who left their own calling card and your feline is laying down a challenge and saying (spraying) "Bug off, this is my place". The easiest solution to something like this is to try and block access to the door/window and see if that makes any difference.
There are commercial sprays on the market that claim they will stop cats from spraying and really, all you can do is give them a try. Some of them may be effective and some of them may just encourage the behavior. But, before you try something like this, figure out why your Maine Coon Cat is spraying where they are spraying.
Castration is usually touted as the best route to stop this behavior, but as we have already read, it's not a hundred percent guarantee that the habit won't develop later in life. If you neuter after spraying has started, it usually acts to reduce the frequency. Here's a few statistics you might find interesting. It was apparently done on older cats and it said roughly 87 percent of all males stopped spraying after castration, 78 percent stopped right away, 9 percent stopped within a few months and 13 percent kept right on spraying. Well despite the numbers, castration/neutering has good odds going for it.
Another option, and one that many cat owners would rather not do, is put your cat on anxiolytics (anti-anxiety drugs) such as Clomicalm and Valium. Although they are used to treat spraying, many who have tried this route say their cats became zombies while on these drugs. If that isn't something you want to consider for your feline, then you may want to try the pheromone approach.
Using herbal therapies may be something else to contemplate as well. For instance one of the best-known remedies to calm pets is Rescue Remedy used approximately 2 to 3 times a day. It won't stop the spraying, but it may calm your cat and as a result reduce or stop the spraying.
Using pheromones is a natural approach rather than chemical. Feliway is a product you might be interested in trying. By all indications, it seems to work rather well by diffusing a placating pheromone into the air that conveys a sense of well being and safety to your Cat. You could also try orange or lemon oil on cotton balls, either placed in the areas they spray or wiped in those areas. Cats aren't particularly fond of either smell.
Another approach is something called SSSCAT that combines a motion detector and an aerosol can that spits out a harmless spray. The theory is that if this is repeated often enough it will keep you cat away from where they are spraying.
Or you might take a fancy to Scatmat that releases a harmless static pulse when your cat touches it. This works when your pet walks across the mat and small pulses of electricity move through wires in the vinyl emitting a small "zap". Your cat (or dog) will learn quickly to stay away from those areas.

If your Maine Coon Cat always seems to let loose in one or two areas, change what that area is used for. This may divert his attention and the spraying will cease. For instance if you put food, bedding or a scratching post in the spots where your cat sprays, this may make them stop. Cats rarely spray in their sleeping, eating or scratching areas. There is the possibility they may move along to another spot, but once again, try diversion tactics.

And if all else fails, see if you can find "stud pants" or even a re-useable baby swim nappy and modify it to fit over the tail. Both these alternatives will allow the urine to pool in them.

How to Clean the Mess
Clean the areas with alcohol. Do not use bleach because bleach has ammonia in it and that is the primary component of urine and will only encourage them to re-offend. Or you can use laundry detergent with enzymes. Then use 50% white vinegar and 50% water in a spray bottle and spray the area.
For carpets use baking soda, white vinegar (the acid neutralizes the ammonia in cat pee), and warm water. Here's how this one works. Use paper towels to get as much urine as you can up from the carpet. Keep doing that until you hardly get any moisture up. Wet the area with 50/50 white vinegar/warm water- enough to get down to the carpet backing. Sprinkle with baking soda and let it foam. Now let it dry to a hard surface. Then vacuum up the spot.

If you have enjoyed this article about spaying and your Maine Coon Cat then please feel free to reprint it as it is. This resource box must be included with the article. Please visit to my blog at www.world-of-maine-coon-cats.blogspot.com.

Maine Coon Cats and old age

Maine Coon Cats and old Age
Caring for you old friend

To help your cat enjoy it’s old age there are many things that you can alter to help.

Feeding

As your cat ages his body will change and he may no longer be able to eat the same food he did as a youngster. He may have difficulty eating certain foods or his body may not digest food as easily as it did.

You can now purchase specially formulated senior cat food that has been tailored to an older cats dietary requirements and is softer, more easily eaten and absorbed.

Dental

As a younger cat he will maintained his own teeth by chewing and eating hard foods, such as cat biscuits, however, as he gets older this will become increasingly difficult for him to accomplish.

Now that your cat is old I would not recommend that you attempt any form of dental care and cleaning yourself because you may further increase any problems.

If you notice your cat having difficulties arrange an appointment with your vet for a check up and clean, he will do a professional job without distress being caused to your cat.

Grooming

Your cat will become less supple as he ages, he will no longer be able to groom himself as he once did. He cannot reach into those difficult areas.

He will need your gentle help on a more regular basis to groom him and keep him looking and feeling good.

Claws

Your cat will no longer be able to scratch as he once did and because of this he will need your help to remove the old claw.

Normally the scratching will remove the outer nail but once he is unable to do this it may grow round and into the pads of his paws.

You need to keep a watchful eye on him and check him regularly to make sure he is not suffering from any discomfort.

He will also have difficulty in retracting his claws and sometimes get them stuck into carpet or furniture. Be gentle with him and help him pull them out of any items to which he becomes attached.

Mobility

Joint pain and immobility is very common in older cats and it will be noticeable when your cat starts having problems getting onto the couch or is about as graceful as a sack of potatoes as he leaps down from a height.

When you notice these problems contact your vet because there are some fantastic medications that can ease his discomfort.

He will not regain his previous grace and poise but will retain his dignity and be comfortable as he moves around.

A history of the Maine Coon Cat

A History of the Maine Coon Cat


The Maine Coon has a really rich and colorful history that many people don't always take the time to appreciate. They are said to be the oldest "natural" (meaning bred without selective interference) breed in North America and are considered to be native to the state of Maine. Did you know the Maine Coon cat is actually the official Maine State cat? They were also known to be the darlings of the rural world where they dominated in the vermin-hunting arena. Many a farmer was mightily impressed with their hunting skills.

Where did this stupendously attractive and intelligent puss come from in the first place? There are many theories, myths and other forms of speculation that never really get right to the bottom of their origin. The most famous myth being the Maine Coon cat is called that because it mated with a raccoon. Not! It is just not physically possible for that to happen. However you can see by looking at the cat's lovely, luxurious coon like tail and their usual coloring (striped like a raccoon and brown) why the myth got started in the first place. Once upon a time only the brown fellows were called Maine Coon cats. Others were referred to as Maine Shags, mainly due to their rugged coats.

As far as myths go there is another one floating around that has Marie Antoinette sending six cats to Wiscasset, Maine prior to trying to flee France during the Revolution. Interesting story, but not likely true either. Most breeders are firmly convinced that the Maine Coon cat is the result of breeding between shorthaired domestic felines and longhairs that arrived in the country from overseas. How did the longhairs get here? The story goes the longhairs were introduced to America by the Vikings. And, if you look at Norwegian Forest cats, you might just agree with that theory. But it would also make sense if New England seamen introduced the shorthairs to the longhairs.

As delightful as the myths may be, what seems to be the most important point is the Maine Coon cat has a venerable show history. In fact, as far back as 1861 Maine Coons were much admired show competitors in New York and Boston. These darlings of the show world lost favor when their longhaired competitors, the Persians came onto the scene. Knocked off their popularity perch in the 1900's Maine Coons didn't come back into vogue until the 1950's when they hit the show circuit with a vengeance and their pedigrees started being documented.

It wasn't until 1968 that an association was formed to preserve and protect the Maine Coon cat breed. So thanks to a handful of breeders the Maine Coon Breeders and Fanciers Association was born with one of its tasks being to promote recognition for this breed. They did a remarkable job and the cat was firmly ensconced in all registries across the United States.

Of interest is a recent development in the Maine Coon cat world, planned breeding. This is interesting because once this task was solely left up to the auspices of Mother Nature. Planned breeding can also mean breeding to rule out or include particular traits. Having said that, rest easy, as the breed is being preserved for its original qualities, and one of those particular qualities is its natural ruggedness.

This is one strong and really healthy feline that has remained untouched in appearance since its beginnings. In fact there are some who would likely mistake them for moggies, but on an up close and personal inspection would realize their mistake. Moggies or mog usually refers to cats of an undistinguished type, sort of like a Heinz 57 dog. It is also an affectionate term of endearment for domesticated cats.

No matter what you choose to call your Maine Coon cat, always refer to it as exceedingly special, for they are. These delightful creatures can steal your heart away with just one glance, and if you only have one Maine Coon, you will soon have more.

If you have enjoyed this article about grooming your Maine Coon Cat then please feel free to reprint it as it is. This resource box must be included with the article. Please visit my blog at www.world-of-maine-coon-cats.blogspot.com.

Information about Maine Coon Cat Colour

Maine Coon Cat Colour Information
Maine Coon Cats have over 60 recognised colours, there are a number of main colours which are then broken down in to many different sub colours.

The Maine Coon Colours recognised by most fanciers and breeders clubs are;
Tabbies - swirls of pattern on the body
Mackeral tabby - swirls of pattern on the body with silver tone
Solid - a cat of one single colour
Tortoiseshell - Patches and shades of colours
Smokes - Same as a solid except with a different colour undercoat
Shaded - prominant undercoat that dominates the top coat
Bi colour - Has one colour from above but has dominant areas of white eg, legs or tummy
Parti colour - Has two colours from above but has dominant areas of white

Whatever colour of Maine Coon Cat you are lucky enought o own they are all incredibly beautiful.

Cat Maine Coon

Cat Maine Coon - World of Maine Coon Cats

Welcome to the World of Maine Coon Cats, this blog is full of information that you need to know about your Maine Coon Cat.

If you own a Maine Coon Cat then this is the blog for you, add it to your favorites and return often, it will be updated on a regular basis, if you want to know something about your Maine Coon Cat then post your question on the blog and hopefully it will be answered.

Characteristics of Maine Coon Cats

Characteristics of Maine Coon Cats

I have listed below all the key Characteristics of the Maine Coon Cat.

The information about characteristics of Maine Coon cats are the standards set by the MCBFA and are the bench mark standard for the Maine Coons of today.

Characteristics of Maine Coon Cats; - General, Head, Eyes, Ears, Body, Legs and Paws, Coat and Coat Colour.

General Statement: The Maine Coon Cat is a solid, rugged cat and is America’s oldest natural long haired breed. Type must not be sacrificed for size, nor size for type, the optimum being a large typey cat. Females are somewhat smaller that males and allowance should be made for the slow maturation of the breed.
Head: The head of the Maine Coon Cat is medium in length and width, with a squareness to the muzzle. Allowance should be made for broadening in males. Cheekbones should be high. The nose is medium in length and gentle, concave curve and no break or bump. The chin is firm and in line with the upper lip and nose.
Eyes: The eyes of the Maine Coon Cat should be large, wide set and slightly oblique in setting. Eye colour can be shades of green, gold or copper, although white cats may be blue or odd eyed. There is no relationship between eye colour and coat colour. Clarity of eye colour is desirable.
Ears: Large, wide at the base, moderately pointed and well tufted, the ears should be set high on the head approximately as ear’s width apart. Lynx like tipping is desirable.
Body: Muscular, medium to large in size and broad chested, the body is long, with all parts in proportion, creating a rectangular appearance. When viewed from the rear, there is a definite squareness to the rump. The neck is medium to long.
Legs and paws: The legs should be substantial, wide set and medium in length, contributing to a rectangular appearance. The paws should be large, round and well tufted (five toes in front, four in back).Tail: The tail is long, equal to the body in length (measuring the distance from the end of the rump to the shoulders), wide at the base and tapering. The fur is full, long and flowing.
Coat: The fur on the shoulders is short, gradually increasing in length along the back and sides, ending in full britches and long shaggy belly fur. The fur is soft but has body, falls smoothly and lies close to the body. A slight undercoat is carried. A full ruff is not expected; however, there should be a frontal ruff beginning at the base of the ears.
Coat colour: All recognised colours. White trim around the chin and lip is permitted, except in solid colour cats.
For most owners the most important characteristics of Maine Coon Cats is that he is big, strong and healthy with a great temperament.

Information about Maine Coon Cat Health

Maine Coon Cat Health

Most Maine Coon Cats are fit and healthy animals, kind natured, gentle and loving. Although illnesses are a problem for all cats and something that a responsible owner should be aware of.

Good nutrition and exercise will all help to keep any Maine Coon Cat healthy, coupled with regular checks at the vet your Maine Coon cat should hopefully never suffer any serious illnesses.

However, all Cats are at risk and the following article outlines some of the possibilites that may occur although they are few and far between.

No one likes to think their beloved Maine Coon Cat could be taken ill and possibly die suddenly. Unfortunately, Maine Coon cats do have a track record as a breed for hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM). This is a common disease in cats, but seems to be more prevalent in Maine Coons.
Recent good news indicates that a gene mutation (linked to sarcomeric proteins) found in Maine Coon cats is related to HCM, and it is good news because once identified there is the potential to save lives.
HCM is the leading cause of sudden death for indoor adult cats. The cardiac myosin binding protein C is not correctly incorporated into the heart muscle of the Maine Coon cats with HCM. Were there any symptoms prior to the unexpected death? Usually no, it just happens which makes it all the more difficult to deal with. It is sometimes diagnosed in cats as a result of something like a blood clot that produces symptoms of a stroke. Although this can be treated, the strokes will continue and get worse.
There are drugs that can be used in situations where the cat has been diagnosed with HCM, however they seem to be producing mixed results at best.
Hypertrophic cardiomyopathy is when the left chamber of the heart thickens. Because the chamber is thicker, it causes the heart to work harder. It occasionally can be diagnosed if the Veterinarian hears a heart murmur or a very rapid heartbeat. Keep in mind though that these symptoms can also mean something else. HCM can be identified using ultra-sound. By the way the Maine Coon cat is not the only one with this gene anomaly. It also shows up in the American Shorthair, Devon Rex, Persian, and Ragdoll.

How do these findings affect breeding? Good question. Since HCM doesn't show up until the cats are older, it's almost impossible to weed out HCM carriers. They may enter adulthood having already sired several litters, and then it's discovered they have HCM. By then the genes have likely been passed on to other generations. With the ability to now identify the gene in a Maine Coon cat, the hope is that a test can pinpoint carriers of this disease in kittens. This may also result in the creation of a drug to intervene.
Another disease you should be aware of in your Maine Coon cat is spinal muscular atrophy. The genetic cause of this was tracked in 2005 and because of this break through there is now an easy and highly reliable DNA carrier test.Spinal muscular atrophy is the result of the death of spinal cord neurons that send signals to the trunk and limb muscles. This can been seen as early as 3 months in youngsters that develop an odd swaying gait of the hindquarters and in how they stand with their hocks just about touching.
At about 5 months they are too weak to jump and any landings attempted are clumsy. These kittens, and later as adults, are not in pain, eat and play well and live relatively long, good lives as indoor cats.
How does this affect a breeding program? Spinal muscular atrophy is inherited by acquiring the gene from both parents. It is known as a simple autosomal recessive trait and it affects male and female kittens equally. The problem is the parents don't show signs of the disease, but are classified as carriers. So, if a carrier is not identified, they could pass this trait on. To identify a carrier DNA is collected from cat cheek cells, blood or frozen semen.
You can do this strictly confidential test by contacting a lab directly to submit samples.Your Maine Coon cat may also contract polycystic kidney disease – an irreversible, inherited disorder once thought to happen only in Persians and Persian related cats.
It does not show up until later in life – usually around the age of seven or so. Polycystic kidney disease causes renal failure and can be identified through several signs. Watch for depression, a reduced appetite, more frequent drinking and urination, loss of weight and bouts of vomiting.Treatment for this is the same as treatment for chronic kidney failure and involves a restricted protein and phosphorus diet, phosphorus binders, Vitamin D and Erythropoietin. In some cases your vet will use subcutaneous fluids.Watch for hip dysplasia that may affect one or both hips. This is another inherited trait involving multiple gene pairs – meaning both parents have hip dysplasia or carry the genes for it. This condition develops over time due to an improperly fitting femoral head into the hip socket and eventually causes osteoarthritis.
Can regular vet visits help maintain the health of your Maine Coon cat? Yes they can, and we encourage you to take your special pet for an exam if you have any health concerns at all.

Maine Coon Cat Facts

Maine Coon Cat Facts.

The Maine Coon Breeders and Fanciers’ Association (MCBFA) details below their opinion of the ideal Maine Coon Cat. I have listed these Maine Coon Cat Facts below and these are the standards set by the MCBFA and are the bench mark standard for the Maine Coons of today.

Maine Coon Cat Facts;

General Statement: The Maine Coon Cat is a solid, rugged cat and is America’s oldest natural long haired breed. Type must not be sacrificed for size, nor size for type, the optimum being a large typey cat. Females are somewhat smaller that males and allowance should be made for the slow maturation of the breed.

Head: The head of the Maine Coon Cat is medium in length and width, with a squareness to the muzzle. Allowance should be made for broadening in males. Cheekbones should be high. The nose is medium in length and gentle, concave curve and no break or bump. The chin is firm and in line with the upper lip and nose.

Eyes: The eyes of the Maine Coon Cat should be large, wide set and slightly oblique in setting. Eye colour can be shades of green, gold or copper, although white cats may be blue or odd eyed. There is no relationship between eye colour and coat colour. Clarity of eye colour is desirable.

Ears: Large, wide at the base, moderately pointed and well tufted, the ears should be set high on the head approximately as ear’s width apart. Lynx like tipping is desirable.

Body: Muscular, medium to large in size and broad chested, the body is long, with all parts in proportion, creating a rectangular appearance. When viewed from the rear, there is a definite squareness to the rump. The neck is medium to long.

Legs and paws: The legs should be substantial, wide set and medium in length, contributing to a rectangular appearance. The paws should be large, round and well tufted (five toes in front, four in back).

Tail: The tail is long, equal to the body in length (measuring the distance from the end of the rump to the shoulders), wide at the base and tapering. The fur is full, long and flowing.

Coat: The fur on the shoulders is short, gradually increasing in length along the back and sides, ending in full britches and long shaggy belly fur. The fur is soft but has body, falls smoothly and lies close to the body. A slight undercoat is carried. A full ruff is not expected; however, there should be a frontal ruff beginning at the base of the ears.

Coat colour: All recognised colours. White trim around the chin and lip is permitted, except in solid colour cats.

Disqualifications: Markings such as buttons, lockets or spots, overall even coat, short cobby body, crossed eyes, kinked tail and incorrect number of toes are disqualifications.

Penalties: Delicate bone structures, untufted paws, poor condition, a nose break or bump, an undershot chin and a short rounded muzzle.

Conclusion: All the above points are vital to a show cat and to breeders, however, all the points above are open to personal interpretation.For most owners the most important aspect of your Maine Coon is that he is big, strong and healthy with a great temperament.

Big Maine Coon Cat

Big Maine Coon Cat - Size of the Maine Coon Cat

The Maine Coon Cat is larger than the average domestic cat but they are not huge as some would have you believe but you can see some very large and big Maine Coon Cats

It is a general misconception that Maine Coons can be as heavy as 30 to 40 lbs, this is simply not true however, they are larger than all other domestic cats.

The average male is between 12 – 20 lbs and the female between 8 – 12 lbs. If your Big Maine Coon weighs considerably more than this it may be due to obesity rather than his natural size, however, some Maine Coons are very large.

To make the size clearer, an average house cat will weigh between 7 – 9 lbs.

Each cat is different and a Maine Coon will not stop growing and developing until 4 to 5 years of age.

Genetics, diet, exercise and general health of the cat all contribute to his size.

The bigger your Maine Conn Cat the more there is to love and hug.

Big Maine Coon Cats Rule.

Keep your Maine Coon Cat off the worktop

Off the Counter Techniques for Your Maine Coon Cat


EEEEK! There he goes again, up on the counter, the fridge, the table, the top of the cupboards and no matter what you've tried so far, nothing works. Don't you just love cats? I mean seriously, they can go wherever they want to, jump as high as they need and can give you that "HA on YOU" look when they're up where they're not supposed to be. You've seen that look, the one that says clearly you've lost your marbles because you're having a fit about them being up on things. The cat on the other hand doesn't see it as being a problem. No kidding!

What can you do? There are a variety of things you can try, but to be honest, many of them work for the short term only and you have to keep reinforcing them. This isn't to say you shouldn't do them, it's a flag saying, you will have to do this more than just once. Cats are not only smart, they're very persistent and if they hopped up on the counter just once and found a treat, they will keep doing it because it paid off for them the first time. Now if you also have a Jack Russell Terrier who likes to climb on the counters – yes ON the counters via the large dog kennel for the Weimaraner, to do the same thing the cats do, then you have a doggedly different problem. However, the solutions may be the same.

The first thing to keep in mind is that cats don't understand punishment of any sort from you the same way a dog does. It just makes them shy of you and smart enough to do the offending behavior when you’re not around. How clever is that anyhow? So you want to actually condition the cat by using the environment around them. That will mean doing things that the cat doesn't associate with you.

Keep the counters clean. If you have empty bowls of yesterday's supper (chicken and rice with sauce) left on the top, guess who will be sticking their nose into it and licking the bowl. Well it won't be your children. So the lesson here is remove all temptations from out of reach of sneaky feet. If it means stashing the goodies in plastic containers, the fridge and in cupboards they can't open or in heavy metal containers, do it. That refers to their goodies. Your goodies you can keep the usual way, but out of the reach of curious paws.

Now speaking of training through the environment. You want something you can use that the cat will not associate with you right? Well, find yourself a squirt gun. Not the big ones that shoot out streams like Victoria Falls, but a light stream. Shoot from a distance and refrain from saying anything like "Ha, got cha!" Most cats don't associate a stream of water with the owner having this weird object in their hands. Will this keep them off the table when you are not home? Maybe yes, maybe no, but you won't know since you aren't there. So this calls for different measures.

Try booby-trapping your counter, and there are several ways to do this as well. One involves loud pop cans with pennies in them. Line them up on the edge of the counter. When your cat jumps up, the cans clatter down around them. Cats hate loud noises and this will keep their feet on the ground for a few days. For this method of be effective you need to do this consistently. Of course there is always the odd puss or two who could care less that they just knocked 6 or 7 noisy objects off the counter. In fact, some just snicker at the prospect of the owner coming home to – 6 cans on the floor and all the pennies scattered under the fridge. (Kidding – you actually tape the holes shut!) At best this crashing clatter will startle them, but will it deter them in the long run? Only time and consistency will tell.

Another home-style remedy for counter surfing is the upside down mousetrap. This idea really would give most owners the collywobbles in case the trap flipped over and nabbed the cat's foot. However, some say it's effective if done the right way. You decide if you want to try this or not. You simply put a mousetrap upside down on the counter, and when the cat lands in the middle of the traps, they'll snap shut and scare him off the counter. Right - watch them land in the only bare spot you have left! Seriously, this method may work with some cats, but it's best to try this only if you are home to rescue your cat if need be.

Speaking of things that "jump up" there is a unique contraption on the market called the Jumpo that might be a better alternative than mousetraps. It's a small wing like contraption that when triggered, jumps up making a clattering noise as it flies into the air. It does not have the risks associated with it that a triggered mousetrap may have. If you want more information on the Jumpo, go here: http://www.jumpotrainer.com/


Try double sided sticky tape on your counters and table. But first make sure it won't stick too badly to your table surface or leave too much glue on the counters. Cats really despise walking on things that grab and stick. Running across this tape would really make them unhappy. Would it keep them off the counter permanently? Depends on how long you want to keep tape on your counters and table.

Tin foil has been known to work because felines they don't like the sound of the crinkling when they land on it. Mind you, we've seen smarty-pants cats go UNDER the foil and explore like it was a tunnel.

There is also a spray you put on your furniture. It's called "No Stay", made by a company called Pet Organics. It's got garlic oil and clove oil in it, but has no smell to humans. As soon as your cat gets on the furniture they would jump right down again. This isn't a smell they like. Usually after about a week they quit jumping up at all. If you want more information on No Stay, go here: http://www.petvetsupply.com/pmsmgar006.html

The best method we could find that will work while you are at home and when you are gone is the SSSCAT. This is a great little device that sprays a harmless, odorless gas from a small container when the cat is within 1 meter of it. The cat's motion triggers the battery operated spray container. It's economical and non-staining, and you can get about 150 sprays out of one can. It usually doesn't take that long for the cat to "get it" though. For more information on SSSCAT go here: http://www.ssscat.com/english/index.html

And don't forget to try out the ScatMat. It lets go with a harmless static pulse when your cat touches it. All your cat does is walks across it and small pulses of electricity move emitting a little "zap". Your cat will learn to stay away from those areas. For more information on this product go here: http://www.safepetproducts.com/pilot.asp?pg=scatmat&gclid=CO_lyaeqkpMCFQKnlgodN1FVgw

If you have enjoyed this article about dealing with aggression and your Maine Coon Cat then please feel free to reprint it as it is. This resource box must be included with the article. Please visit my blog at www.world-of-maine-coon-cats.blogspot.com for lots more free articles and information.

How to groom your Main Coon Cat

How to groom your Main Coon Cat

Grooming your Main Coon CatEver noticed in all your reading about grooming the Main Coon cat that hardly anyone makes mention of cleaning off those Klingons (and we don't mean those that Captain Kirk fought on Star Trek!) These little hitchhikers are fondly referred to by many names, none polite, and no one likes them hanging from the rear end of their cat. Hard, dried, stuck like glue and tangled in the britches/pantaloons, the feces fiasco frustrates felinesA Main Coon cat is world famous for their abundantly fuzzy, furry tails – much like a waving flag of confidence. It seems like there is more tail than there is cat! That's why they are often referred to as "the tail with a cat glued to it!" That bushy tail has a myth attached to it about a MaineCoon cat mating with a raccoon. Not true! The term Main Coon was used to identify them first, and the cat part was tacked on later.Grooming a Maine Coon cat doesn't have to be done often, as they're very fastidious in the self-cleaning department. If you're showing, that's another story. That means the "B" word and we all know how happy cats are about bathes! Let's assume for the purposes of this article you want to do regular coat maintenance.For regular coat care for your Maine Coon cat you will do this about twice a week. In your Maine Coon cat care kitty (sorry, couldn't resist the pun) you need a de-matting comb, a grooming rake, a metal comb, clippers, seam ripper, a flea comb, cotton balls, white vinegar, baking soda and a small portable hair dryer with a low setting.Use the metal comb to get at any tangles and knots. Gently run the comb through them, and start near the end of a tangle, not at the fur near the skin and then pull, that's an "Ouch!" Hold the clump of tangles near to the skin. Holding the fur near the skin will lessen the tugging to get the knots out. If the comb doesn't help you with the knots, use the seam ripper to winnow your way into the heart of the clump and carefully separate the fur.You next use the grooming rake to take out dead undercoat. The amount of hair you'll get out of your Maine Coon cat will be enough to make a dust bunny the size of a Jack Russell Terrier. Strip this out because it's one of the reasons your cat get those knotty knots. Be careful working on the sensitive tail and tummy.For your Maine Coon cat's eyes you have two options: eye wipes or a damp cotton ball. When you do wipe their eyes, do not use the same ball/wipe on both eyes. This cuts down on any chances of infection spreading should your cat have an eye inflammation.The ears can be done two ways as well. You can buy ear wipes at a pet store, or use cotton balls. Some advocate using Q-tips, but this isn't the safest method. If you insert you Q-tip too far into the ear canal, you can cause damage to the eardrums. Use cotton balls instead. For the face, use a warm, damp facecloth and gently wipe the muzzle and mouth area.Another tip for cleaning Maine Coon cat ears is using apple cider vinegar and water in a 50/50 solution. Mix the solution with warm water, and test it on your wrist first. Dip a cotton ball in and dampen it, not soak it. Clean the inside of the ears with a gentle circling motion. Use the solution once a week. It keeps the environment inside the ear in a balanced Ph and reduces chances of ear infections.Now, those little dried, icky bits of doo that no matter how many times you comb the fur, they stay adhered to the tail. Here is where the white vinegar comes in. Take a cotton ball and soak it in white vinegar, dab it on the portion of the tail where the doo particles are, then carefully sprinkle baking soda on it. You get instant foam. Put the blow dryer on low heat and dry the baking soda paste until it is hard. Comb it out. Doo be gone! This paste has also been known to whiten fur as well. Just be careful not to get vinegar near their faces or near sensitive private parts.Your cat may also have something called stud tail, a build up of a brown waxy substance found at the base of the tail. One of the things you can use to clean this is a good hand cleaner, but don't use any product with petroleum or pumice stone. Yellowed areas on the fur from pee dribbles respond well to the white vinegar and baking soda routine.If you have enjoyed this article about grooming your Maine Coon Cat then please feel free to reprint it as it is. This resource box must be included with the article. Please visit and link to my blog at http://www.world-of-maine-coon-cats.blogspt.com/.

Aggression and the Maine Coon Cat

Ouch! The Bite That Hurts – Dealing with Maine Coon Cat Aggression
Talk about thorny problems – or rather pointed (cat's claws and teeth) problems. Did you know this is the second highest ranking problem that drives cat owners to the vet for solutions? The first one is inappropriate elimination in the house. If your Maine Coon Cat came with manuals, this might be a lot easier to deal with. However, cats don't come with manuals, and the other thing is, even if they did, they wouldn’t read them anyway.
So what do you do? That's the $64 million dollar question. It's well documented that aggression is usually "acquired" in one of two ways – early experiences in life and genetics, with genetics playing the lead role. You might be able to live with your cat's quirks (I mean really, they live with ours!) but cat bites and scratches hurt like the dickens and can cause infections.
Yes, cats are considered pets, but by nature they are hunters and stalkers with the teeth and claws to back that point up. No matter how pampered your Maine Coon Cat is, they will still lie in wait, stalk and pounce. That's just the way it is! You've seen them rip about your house batting and pouncing on anything that moves, including the dog's wagging tail (which sets the dog off too). In the world of a small kitten, and at times older cats, anything that looks like it might be "prey" is worth hunting. It's a great blast playing hunt! However, if you decide to encourage this kind of behavior, beware! It can and will get out of hand.
Kittens usually have littermates to test their boundaries. If one of them gets out of line, they get an attitude adjustment from the kitten they just peed off, or Mom steps in and reads them the riot act. If a kitten is adopted out too early, this rough play transfers to the owner. Owners don’t always let the cat know what's out of line and what isn't. Likely under the mistaken impression that it's "just" harmless play and you can't discipline a cat like a dog.
There's a difference between harmless kitten/cat carousing and aggressive play. Just look at your kitten/cat and you will know the signs right away – highly exaggerated postures, the "crouch", ears flattened, dilated pupils and that wicked switching tail. What to do? Re-direct the kitten's/cat's behavior if you like by clapping your hands loudly or making some other ruckus that startles them.
Frankly the easiest solution is to not encourage this acting out by rough housing with them. Refuse to participate and yes, they will grow out of this.
Territory aggression is a bit of a bummer. The racket a cat lets out when another feline comes onto "their" property is horrendous. You can't miss it. It might sound funny, but in terms of staking a claim to a place, a cat is way worse than a dog. This kind of behavior usually starts when they are between 1 and 2 years old. They not only get upset, they get downright bent out of shape at any other cat daring to intrude. It will sometimes take them more than half the day to get their noses out of joint.
Territory aggression is the "hey this spot is mine" kind of clash that happens right in front of you in the house. The hissing, growling and spitting starts, there's usually some fast foot action, a yowl or two and the chase is on. If you interfere you may get bitten, clawed or hissed at. If you do succeed in separating the cats, the instigator may displace his bad mood on the other cats in the house (and sometimes the owner).
There are times when the feline grumbling can escalate into a full rear attack made by the more dominant member of the pack. The submissive cat gets tail and loin injuries. When in that spot they usually retaliate and spray the house to get their rank in the pack back. You won't always see this coming either because the signals they give each other are really subtle. Although multiple cat households are mostly peaceful because they've all worked out their differences over a period of time, clashes do happen when something causes stress. Turf battles can be loud and ugly. Adding a new cat to the mix without following the "Introduction" protocol will invite a disaster.
What to do with a turf battle? Separate the combatants with gloves, or something to protect your hands. Take them to separate rooms. By the way, if you are returning from the vet, leave the cat in the carrier for an hour before letting it out. Don't punish them past separating them after the battle. Instead withdraw affection for a few days and they'll get the message quickly.
You can also try a product called Feliway. Although it's usually used to stop cats from peeing in the house, it can be used to calm aggression in cats. Don't spray it directly on the cat. Use a cloth of some sort like paper towels, wait until it's not damp then rub the towel on the cat's back and sides of the head. Have lots of super sturdy scratching posts and good pounce toys. Keep nails clipped short.
Aggression directed against humans is more than a bummer. It can be dangerous for both you and the cat. This type of aggression is usually instilled due to improper handling while the cat was a kitten. They will be frightened of people, pin their ears back, curl their tails inward, angle their bodies away from the threat and lash out with claws and bite. The hissy fit usually involves a show of sharp, pointed teeth and their hair may be standing on end.
Really about the only thing you can do in this situation is to make sure kittens are handled gently and appropriately and properly socialized to humans, other cats and dogs. Stroke slowly and gently when kitten is relaxed, and treat with food when you are done. If you're dealing with an adult, then this is more difficult to manage.
Adults can take a long time to overcome fear, but it can be done with patience. Let the cat get hungry then offer its favorite food. Don't approach the cat! Wait until it comes to you. This might not happen for a while but if you act slowly and carefully, with respect, the cat will eventually come around and eat out of your hand. The cat needs to work out its fears in its own good time, pushing it will not help.
Oddly enough, cats also manifest something called redirected aggression as well. What happens is something upsets the cat and instead of taking its aggression out on the cause of their angst, they beat up the owner or another pet. Obviously this would ruin any trust built up between the cat and the other cats and the owner.
The only solution to this is to find and remove what caused the aggression in the first place. If it was another cat, shut the blinds, tear outside and shoo it away. Leave your cat alone until it calms down. Don't try to calm it down or you will likely get bitten for your trouble. Separate the upset cat from the others by putting it into a room by itself and leave the lights off. If you need to, use gloves to pick the upset feline up, or wrap it in a towel. Once calm, reintroduce the cat to the others. This by the way is why cats coming back from the vet get pounced on. The others can smell strange "cat/other animals" on the returning feline.
Aggression related to medical difficulties is another problem to consider. Although this does not happen that frequently, it is something you need to check with your vet. You need to check with a vet when the aggression happens literally out of the blue. Handle the cat with care and make sure it remains in the carrier until the vet is ready for the exam. You'd be ideally asking for a complete exam and x-rays to rule out a problem. The exam may catch arthritis, which is painful for the cat when handled. There may a neurological problem. Take the time to find out what ails your cat. It will make life easier.
There are a number of possible medical solutions to problems your cat may have. It of course depends on the diagnosis, which could be anything from arthritis to "ghost" pains or epilepsy to "dry" feline infectious peritonitis (terminal). Work with your vet and cat to get the best medication possible to help them.
Doctor Jekyll and Mr Hyde at times take up residence in your cat (petting aggression). While petting them they suddenly whirl and bite you. Hmmm, they wanted up on your lap in the first place! What's up with that?
What's up with that is that some cats have a low tolerance for affection. So at the first signs they're getting peed – restlessness, twitching tail, flat ears that are twitching and moving its head toward you hand – release the cat. You can try handing them a yummy fish treat just before you think they might attack, but this is a little like trying to guess the winning numbers in the lottery.
There are other forms of aggression such as dominance aggression and maternal aggression. Both display the classic signs of a perturbed puss that we have already discussed in this article. Yes there are drugs you can try that range from Valium to Acepromazine (tranquilizers) and from antihistamines to amytriptyline. The bottom line is really this: do you want your cat on drugs? Will it help them curb the aggression? Tough questions that only you, in consultation with your vet, can make up your mind about.
If you have enjoyed this article about dealing with aggression and your Maine Coon Cat then please feel free to reprint it as it is. This resource box must be included with the article. Please visit my blog at http://www.world-of-maine-coon-cats.blogspt.com/ for lots more free articles and information.

Cats - A wonderful creature

What do you think about your pets? Surely the answer will be love and affection. Every one will agree that the selection of right pet is a serious project. It is most important because the pet selected by you will remain as your family member for many years to come and surely this pet will be remembered by the whole family later on. Owning a pet is also important for your children because they learn a lot from pet friendship like relationship skills, responsibility and also care for others. Always remember, the pet selected by you will have a sure impact on all your family members. Now keeping all this in mind, what can be a better selection? Surely the answer will be a cute cat. It is just because of god gifted characteristics that the cat is given a priority over the other pets. Cat is a social creature and it is why a cat adjusts in the new environment very soon. If you think cats may not understand your sayings, you will be totally wrong. When you bring a new kitten in your home that walks across the kitchen or dinning room table, you should simply rattle a newspaper at her and say sit. This will simply teach her to stay off and later on you will be able to order the command without newspaper and she will surely be obeying you. Cats have been living as domestic pets with human beings for thousand of years. Among domesticated breeds, many options are available including one without hair and tails. Another excellent option can be Maine coon cat. These cats are long, broad and muscular with larger boons than other breeds. Which breed you select does not matter too much, as the only thing that matters too much is the behavior which you opt for your pets. For this you need to develop good communication skills between you and your four legs friend. When it comes to cats, you should know how cats communicate? Simply the cats purr and hiss. When it comes to fellow felines, body language comes to play. For this you need to read the body language of cats. Remember an angry cat always twitches her tail and if the tail is high in the air, it means she is happy with you. If a cat is in fear the tail and hair on the back will become raised. On the other hand a friendly cat will always try to touch your nose and if sitting in your lap may paw you. This all means the show of affection towards its owner. For cats, there are some defining terms like a male cat is called tom and a female cat is called queen. The cute younger ones are known as kittens. Whenever you bring a kitten home, you should always give him a name which can be after the name of some favored personality or game name or either some cartoon. These cat names help to train your cats easily. You should also make sure to fulfill all the needs of your cats. Especially their sleeping time should be looked after carefully. An average sleep of a cat is about thirteen to fourteen hours a day. But as the cats get older they need more sleep. However some cats may sleep majority of the time in the day. Finally, the most important question about cats can be how long they live. The average life of cats is fourteen to twenty years but domesticated cats live for a longer time period. Generally speaking, when it comes to have a pet as your family member, nothing can be best than having cats as your four legs friend. About the Author If you are interested in finding more useful information about cats then visit us today. From maine coon cat to ragdoll cat you can find a lot.

Information about the Maine Coon Cat

The Maine Coon Cat Maine Coon cats are striking animals. The Maine Coon cat is impressive in size and looks, but also makes a good-natured addition to the family, and the big Maine Coon cat has also earned a reputation as a working farm cat.The Maine Coon is one of the earliest American cats, though it fell out of favor when some of the imported long hairs joined the scene. It also was at one point bred with Persians to improve the Persian cat line, though now is a breed in its own right.When looking at Maine Coon cats, a description hardly does them justice. Pictures of Maine Coon cats can give you a better idea of their muscular build and beautiful tabby coats. Maine Coon cat pictures may also help you decide on the color variety that you prefer: the Maine Coon cat comes in almost all colors and patterns, excluding color points, solid lilac, and solid chocolate. Most will have a white mouth and chin. Maine Coons have a large, broad head with wide set eyes, large tufted ears, medium-length, wide set legs with large paws, and a long tail.Deciding on a Maine Coon cat should not be taken lightly! Maine Coon kittens are very active and playful, but also can be very loving. The Maine Coon kitten is also intelligent, and tolerates children well. The Maine Coon cat is an excellent hunter, so if he goes outdoors do not be surprised if he brings home a gift of a rodent or small bird. The Maine Coon is also one of the few cats that does not mind going into the water.To find Maine Coon cats for sale, the best place to look is at Maine Coon cat breeders. Many will post on their websites when they have Maine Coon kittens for sale. If you are looking for a certain color combination, such as a silver tabby Maine Coon cat, you will want to make sure that the breeder offers them. Be cautious of anywhere that advertises a free Maine coon kittens. These may come from a less than honest cattery, and may not actually be a Maine Coon at all, or be a Maine Coon in poor health. A better option is to contact a Maine Coon rescue group, where you can adopt a Maine Coon that has been abandoned by its previous owner. Maine Coon cat rescues can be found all over the United States and the United Kingdom.

Scratching problems and your Maine Coon Cat

Maine Coon Cats – What Do I Do With Those Nails?

(Never have your cat de-clawed)
Oh gee whiz – nice couch! Who did the decorating in strips? The cat? Right, if you're a Maine Coon Cat owner chances are you have at least one couch that bit the big biscuit because your cat used it as a scratching post. Can you do something about this? Yes you can, but first you must understand that scratching is something instinctive, natural and can't be stopped. So that leaves you with using things like "aversion" techniques if you will. And no, we don't mean anything nasty or mean that would hurt. Which leads us to a slight diversion here – DO NOT DECLAW your cat. "But," you sputter "my house is a gigantic scratching post and the furniture looks like shrapnel shredded it."
Okay you're technically at an "impuss" (sorry, couldn't resist the play on words) with your Maine Coon Cat's natural behavior and your desire to have a couch that doesn't look like it's been blown up from the inside out with stuffing sticking out the holes. Back to declawing, because it's SO important that you understand why you do not inflict this inhumane torture on your cat. It literally maims them for life and can cause some major emotional, physical and behavioral problems. This is NOT like trimming their nails. Their claws are an integral part of their balance, survival and ability to move about.
If you declaw your Maine Coon Cat you are having the last joint of the cat's toes amputated which is excruciatingly painful and fraught with all kinds of complications. This is like you having the last joint of your fingers cut off. Not a pretty picture is it? It can also make them shift weight to their hind legs causing the muscles in the front quarters to waste away. The reason they walk that way is due to contracting of the tendons after surgery.
Be aware there are other serious problems that arise if you declaw your Maine Coon Cat, not the least of which is the stress for the cat who is trying to cope with having lost a major part of the way they function. By the way, the pain they experience when trying to use the litter box after such surgery will virtually guarantee your cat will pee some place where they aren't supposed to pee. The hostility this may create in your Maine Coon Cat can then manifest itself in biting, hissing and an aversion to people. No small wonder after someone inflicts that kind of pain is it?
Okay, so you know your cat scratches or you wouldn't be reading this article to find out how to stop it. This is natural. The trick here is to stop them from scratching things you DON'T want them to slice and dice and give them something they CAN "have at." That means you need to start thinking like a Maine Coon Cat. J

Punishment doesn't work with a cat – period! They just learn you seem to be unpredictable when you catch them and start to avoid the psycho they thought they could trust. Not a good relationship. Plus guess what, Maine Coon Cats not only have superb recall, but they hold grudges like you wouldn't believe.

Cats scratch because it's a territorial instinct – to mark and define "their" turf. It's not the claw marks alone that leave a message for other cats, it's the scent left behind by their paws that says: "Go away – this is MY house." So it makes sense then that they scratch things that are in the main part of the house, not hidden away some place out of sight. As far as being adept at redecorating, your puss leaves a great deal to be desired, but give them credit for understanding the concept of "tearing down the old before bringing on the new." Kidding!

Cats also scratch to keep their muscles in shape, especially the ones in their front quarters. And to be honest, they also scratch because they can and it feels sooooo good. These are some of the reasons why you can't stop them from scratching. So, let's take a look at what you can do to divert the urge from the couch to a scratching post.

First of all, in order for you to get your cat to scratch something and someplace else, you have to have something for them to do it on. That means buying a sturdy scratching post with either sisal or carpeting or corrugated cardboard. (More on that later) Plop it down right where she can see it and let her investigate. Just stay out of the process of her checking it out. She knows what to do with it. Maine Coon Cats aren't dumb and don't need lessons from humans on how to go about using the post. Although it may provide them with some comic relief!

The scratching post of preference would be rough, like a tree if you will, and it has to be tall (at least 28 inches) and steady, and not fall over. The perfect scratch for a feline is sisal material because it has texture and grain for shredding vertically (a cat's preferred M.O.) Hint: don't throw away a lovely piece of sisal material that has had the living daylights scratched out of it. Now that your Maine Coon Cat has broken it in, it's the fave post and will be used over and over again.

The other thing you can use is the reverse side of rugs. The backing is excellent scratching material. Why not the carpet side? Ever watched a cat pull the small tufts out of the carpet and track them all through the house? Make sure wherever you use this idea (like over areas your Maine Coon Cat has already been scratching) to staple or tape it securely.

Now the trick to getting them to use the post is this. At first keep it in the same main room area you and the family frequent. You can move it over time, but do this slowly. To start with put the post where your cat frequently scratches. Having said that, you might need more than one post if your Maine Coon Cat likes to "attack" a variety of pieces of furniture, the drapes or other items. Feed your Maine Coon Cat by the post and play there as well. And by all means, bribe her with fresh catnip by rubbing the leaves into the post. Sneaky eh?

Reward your cat for using the post with yummy treats and just create positive associations with using "it".

Having trouble discouraging your cat from using your beloved couch? Try covering the area with tin foil. Another great deterrent is actually double-sided tape. Why these suggestions? They don't "feel" good to scratch. Consider removing your cat's "scent" from her usual scratching areas by using lemon-scented or orange scented sprays, peels or potpourri. Maine Coon Cats really don't like citrus smells. Yes, there are commercial spray products on the market that can be used as well. You'll find those at a pet store.

If all else fails, then get the water squirt gun out or spray bottle with a jet like stream when sprayed, or use a loud whistle or other raucous sound (like pennies in a tin can). What you want to do is make sure they develop an aversion to their usual haunts. Other helpful solutions include trimming their nails, or invest in a SoftPaws kit (light weight vinyl caps that are applied over top of your cat's nails) Where there's will, there's a way!

Remember though, never have your cat de-clawed no matter how bad the problem. Seek advice from a vet if the problem continues to persist no matter what you try.

If you have enjoyed this article about spaying and your Maine Coon Cat then please feel free to reprint it as it is. This resource box must be included with the article. Please visit and link to my blog at http://www.world-of-maine-coon-cats.blogspt.com/.

Your Maine Coon Cat and urine spraying problems

Maine Coon Cats and Spraying
Oh my, you've been there and done that haven't you? Especially if you happen to own a cat (pardon me – if they own you)! Spraying in the house is the number one behavior that is guaranteed to drive you right up the wall and right around the bend. It makes you just want to tear your hair out in frustration. There MUST be a way to stop this!
The Whys!
First let's look at why cats spray in the house in the first place. You probably know they're marking their territory, but honestly they aren't doing it just to ruin your day. They aren't hiding what they do and they haven't spent their leisure hours plotting to upset you. This kind of behavior is instinctual and genetically programmed into your Maine Coon Cat. Period! They spray because it's their way of telling other cat that this spot is theirs. Call it a form of staking claim to ownership – ownership of your house. While they mean no harm and are operating innocently, this just can't happen inside, and you're getting mighty tired of Fluffy backing up to the new couch and letting fly.
Don't despair, there is a way to make this stop and it usually starts by making a few adjustments in your house.
Spraying or Urinating?
You might not care too much right now whether your Maine Coon Cat is spraying or urinating as all you know is you want "that" to stop. Well, you need to know if they are simply taking a pee or are really marking their territory. So take a look and see what is happening. If they're just taking a pee, they will be doing that in the usual manner, butt down in the litter box (or outside in a hole they dug for the same purpose).
If they're marking their space, they literally turn their backside to the object, back up, twitch the tail and take aim at a spot just about where another cat's nose would be if one were standing there. Cat urine contains pheromones (chemical substances) that give off certain messages. So it's either spraying or sending a clear "I'm ready to mate," signal. And, if you're wondering if all cats spray, the answer is yes they do, although it is more common in un-neutered males. As for intact females, they usually don't spray, but there have been instances where they leave a marker for a tom letting him know they are in heat.
This kind of behavior rarely happens if the kitten was fixed at about six months of age. Having said that though, being spayed/neutered is no guarantee marking won't happen later in life, as it is usually stress related. Stress can be due to a move, a new person in the house or a new animal added to the mix. And yes, males are the heaviest sprayers. If your cat is urinating on the floor, carpet, bedding, clothing lying about, this is not spraying. This is peeing where they should not pee, or inappropriate elimination. There are a couple of reasons why this may be happening, and the first one may be due to a bladder or urinary tract infection because of crystals that have formed in their urine. If they make pained sounds while doing this, head for the vet to get them checked out.
If that doesn't "sound" like it's the problem, then you have a Maine Coon cat that is generally speaking "peed off" about something. This could also be because of several things such as rivalry for the affections of another cat or they totally have a hissy fit over another cat being in their space. Just because you may have a multi-cat house does not mean all cats get along together. They all have their own individual personalities.
The other problem could be litterbox related. Maine Coon Cats are really fussy about having a clean box in a private place to do their business. They also like to have a spare box around somewhere in case the main one is too busy or doesn't smell like they want to use it. Litterboxes need to be cleaned on a regular basis and totally emptied at least once a week. This is sort of like a numbers game. If you have one cat, one box should suffice. Two cats, three boxes will work. Eight cats? Ideally four boxes, but you could squeak by with three that were cleaned religiously. Chances are though if the boxes are busy one of your brood will take exception to the toilet facilities and find an alternative spot (one you WON'T like). By the way, have you changed your brand of litter lately? Or moved the box? Felines are notoriously fussy about things being where they expect them to be and as they like them. If you have changed the brand of litter you use or moved the box, try putting things back the way they were and see what happens. It's a little like having a two-year old pitch a fit over having to eat peas isn't it?
How to Stop Spraying
The first thing you need to do is figure out if there is any kind of a pattern to your cat's spraying behavior. In other words, where is the cat spraying? In the same location – say right by the back screen door? Near patio doors that lead outside? This may mean there's been a visitor who left their own calling card and your feline is laying down a challenge and saying (spraying) "Bug off, this is my place". The easiest solution to something like this is to try and block access to the door/window and see if that makes any difference.
There are commercial sprays on the market that claim they will stop cats from spraying and really, all you can do is give them a try. Some of them may be effective and some of them may just encourage the behavior. But, before you try something like this, figure out why your Maine Coon Cat is spraying where they are spraying.
Castration is usually touted as the best route to stop this behavior, but as we have already read, it's not a hundred percent guarantee that the habit won't develop later in life. If you neuter after spraying has started, it usually acts to reduce the frequency. Here's a few statistics you might find interesting. It was apparently done on older cats and it said roughly 87 percent of all males stopped spraying after castration, 78 percent stopped right away, 9 percent stopped within a few months and 13 percent kept right on spraying. Well despite the numbers, castration/neutering has good odds going for it.
Another option, and one that many cat owners would rather not do, is put your cat on anxiolytics (anti-anxiety drugs) such as Clomicalm and Valium. Although they are used to treat spraying, many who have tried this route say their cats became zombies while on these drugs. If that isn't something you want to consider for your feline, then you may want to try the pheromone approach.
Using herbal therapies may be something else to contemplate as well. For instance one of the best-known remedies to calm pets is Rescue Remedy used approximately 2 to 3 times a day. It won't stop the spraying, but it may calm your cat and as a result reduce or stop the spraying.
Using pheromones is a natural approach rather than chemical. Feliway is a product you might be interested in trying. By all indications, it seems to work rather well by diffusing a placating pheromone into the air that conveys a sense of well being and safety to your Maine Coon Cat(s). For more information on this product go here: http://www.feliway.uk.com/feliway_uk.nsf/Page?OpenForm, you could also try orange or lemon oil on cotton balls, either placed in the areas they spray or wiped in those areas. Cats aren't particularly fond of either smell.
Another approach is something called SSSCAT that combines a motion detector and an aerosol can that spits out a harmless spray. The theory is that if this is repeated often enough it will keep you cat away from where they are spraying. For more information on this product go here: http://www.ssscat.com/english/index.html
Or you might take a fancy to Scatmat that releases a harmless static pulse when your cat touches it. This works when your pet walks across the mat and small pulses of electricity move through wires in the vinyl emitting a small "zap". Your cat (or dog) will learn quickly to stay away from those areas. For more information on this product go here: http://www.safepetproducts.com/pilot.asp?pg=scatmat&gclid=CO_lyaeqkpMCFQKnlgodN1FVgw

If your Maine Coon Cat always seems to let loose in one or two areas, change what that area is used for. This may divert his attention and the spraying will cease. For instance if you put food, bedding or a scratching post in the spots where your cat sprays, this may make them stop. Cats rarely spray in their sleeping, eating or scratching areas. There is the possibility they may move along to another spot, but once again, try diversion tactics.

And if all else fails, see if you can find "stud pants" or even a re-useable baby swim nappy and modify it to fit over the tail. Both these alternatives will allow the urine to pool in them.

How to Clean the Mess
Clean the areas with alcohol. Do not use bleach because bleach has ammonia in it and that is the primary component of urine and will only encourage them to re-offend. Or you can use laundry detergent with enzymes. Then use 50% white vinegar and 50% water in a spray bottle and spray the area.
For carpets use baking soda, white vinegar (the acid neutralizes the ammonia in cat pee), and warm water. Here's how this one works. Use paper towels to get as much urine as you can up from the carpet. Keep doing that until you hardly get any moisture up. Wet the area with 50/50 white vinegar/warm water- enough to get down to the carpet backing. Sprinkle with baking soda and let it foam. Now let it dry to a hard surface. Then vacuum up the spot.
If you have enjoyed this article about spaying and your Maine Coon Cat then please feel free to reprint it as it is. This resource box must be included with the article. Please visit and link to my blog at www.world-of-maine-coon-cats.blogspot.com.

Grooming your Maine Coon Cat

Grooming your Maine Coon Cat


Ever noticed in all your reading about grooming the Maine Coon cat that hardly anyone makes mention of cleaning off those Klingons (and we don't mean those that Captain Kirk fought on Star Trek!) These little hitchhikers are fondly referred to by many names, none polite, and no one likes them hanging from the rear end of their cat. Hard, dried, stuck like glue and tangled in the britches/pantaloons, the feces fiasco frustrates felines

A Maine Coon cat is world famous for their abundantly fuzzy, furry tails – much like a waving flag of confidence. It seems like there is more tail than there is cat! That's why they are often referred to as "the tail with a cat glued to it!" That bushy tail has a myth attached to it about a Maine Coon cat mating with a raccoon. Not true! The term Maine Coon was used to identify them first, and the cat part was tacked on later.

Grooming a Maine Coon cat doesn't have to be done often, as they're very fastidious in the self-cleaning department. If you're showing, that's another story. That means the "B" word and we all know how happy cats are about bathes! Let's assume for the purposes of this article you want to do regular coat maintenance.

For regular coat care for your Maine Coon cat you will do this about twice a week. In your Maine Coon cat care kitty (sorry, couldn't resist the pun) you need a de-matting comb, a grooming rake, a metal comb, clippers, seam ripper, a flea comb, cotton balls, white vinegar, baking soda and a small portable hair dryer with a low setting.

Use the metal comb to get at any tangles and knots. Gently run the comb through them, and start near the end of a tangle, not at the fur near the skin and then pull, that's an "Ouch!" Hold the clump of tangles near to the skin. Holding the fur near the skin will lessen the tugging to get the knots out. If the comb doesn't help you with the knots, use the seam ripper to winnow your way into the heart of the clump and carefully separate the fur.

You next use the grooming rake to take out dead undercoat. The amount of hair you'll get out of your Maine Coon cat will be enough to make a dust bunny the size of a Jack Russell Terrier. Strip this out because it's one of the reasons your cat get those knotty knots. Be careful working on the sensitive tail and tummy.

For your Maine Coon cat's eyes you have two options: eye wipes or a damp cotton ball. When you do wipe their eyes, do not use the same ball/wipe on both eyes. This cuts down on any chances of infection spreading should your cat have an eye inflammation.

The ears can be done two ways as well. You can buy ear wipes at a pet store, or use cotton balls. Some advocate using Q-tips, but this isn't the safest method. If you insert you Q-tip too far into the ear canal, you can cause damage to the eardrums. Use cotton balls instead. For the face, use a warm, damp facecloth and gently wipe the muzzle and mouth area.

Another tip for cleaning Maine Coon cat ears is using apple cider vinegar and water in a 50/50 solution. Mix the solution with warm water, and test it on your wrist first. Dip a cotton ball in and dampen it, not soak it. Clean the inside of the ears with a gentle circling motion. Use the solution once a week. It keeps the environment inside the ear in a balanced Ph and reduces chances of ear infections.

Now, those little dried, icky bits of doo that no matter how many times you comb the fur, they stay adhered to the tail. Here is where the white vinegar comes in. Take a cotton ball and soak it in white vinegar, dab it on the portion of the tail where the doo particles are, then carefully sprinkle baking soda on it. You get instant foam. Put the blow dryer on low heat and dry the baking soda paste until it is hard. Comb it out. Doo be gone! This paste has also been known to whiten fur as well. Just be careful not to get vinegar near their faces or near sensitive private parts.

Your cat may also have something called stud tail, a build up of a brown waxy substance found at the base of the tail. One of the things you can use to clean this is a good hand cleaner, but don't use any product with petroleum or pumice stone. Yellowed areas on the fur from pee dribbles respond well to the white vinegar and baking soda routine.


If you have enjoyed this article about grooming your Maine Coon Cat then please feel free to reprint it as it is. This resource box must be included with the article. Please visit and link to my blog at www.world-of-maine-coon-cats.blogspot.com.

Searching for Maine Coon Cat Lovers everywhere

Attention Maine Coon Cat Lovers

Over the next few weeks i will be searching for any other related Maine Coon cat sites and discussion groups all over the internet.

If you want to help and link to this site please do so, only link if your site is related specifically to Maine Coon Cats or cats in general.

I will not link to irrelevant sites, this blog has been designed to help other owners of Maine Coon Cats.

All help is welcome, i want this blog to be of use and full of great,relevant information to any who read it.

If you know of a great site then let me know so that i can set up a link to it and contact the owner to set up links.

You can publiish cat articles on the blog if you wish or any relevant and useful content.

If you have any questions please feel free to email me.

Example of the perfect Maine Coon Cat

If you click on the link below you will be taken to Rose Petal Cattery where you will be able to view some absolutely stunning prize winning Maine Coon Cats.


www.rosepetalsmccats.com/001_CHGCSHOW.htm

The perfect Maine Coon Cat

The perfect maine Coon Cat

Below is the Maine Coon Breeders and Fanciers’ Association (MCBFA) details of the ideal Maine Coon Cat. The standards set by the MCBFA are the bench mark standard for the Maine Coons of today.

The following is the MCBFA standard for the Maine Coon Cat;

General Statement:

The Maine Coon is a solid, rugged cat and is America’s oldest natural long haired breed. Type must not be sacrificed for size, nor size for type, the optimum being a large typey cat. Females are somewhat smaller that males and allowance should be made for the slow maturation of the breed.

Head

The head is medium in length and width, with a squareness to the muzzle. Allowance should be made for broadening in males. Cheekbones should be high. The nose is medium in length and gentle, concave curve and no break or bump. The chin is firm and in line with the upper lip and nose.

Eyes

The eyes should be large, wide set and slightly oblique in setting. Eye colour can be shades of green, gold or copper, although white cats may be blue or odd eyed. There is no relationship between eye colour and coat colour. Clarity of eye colour is desirable.

Ears

Large, wide at the base, moderately pointed and well tufted, the ears should be set high on the head approximately as ear’s width apart. Lynx like tipping is desirable.

Body

Muscular, medium to large in size and broad chested, the body is long, with all parts in proportion, creating a rectangular appearance. When viewed from the rear, there is a definite squareness to the rump. The neck is medium to long.

Legs and paws

The legs should be substantial, wide set and medium in length, contributing to a rectangular appearance. The paws should be large, round and well tufted (five toes in front, four in back).

Tail

The tail is long, equal to the body in length (measuring the distance from the end of the rump to the shoulders), wide at the base and tapering. The fur is full, long and flowing.

Coat

The fur on the shoulders is short, gradually increasing in length along the back and sides, ending in full britches and long shaggy belly fur. The fur is soft but has body, falls smoothly and lies close to the body. A slight undercoat is carried. A full ruff is not expected; however, there should be a frontal ruff beginning at the base of the ears.

Coat colour

All recognised colours. White trim around the chin and lip is permitted, except in solid colour cats.

Disqualifications

Markings such as buttons, lockets or spots, overall even coat, short cobby body, crossed eyes, kinked tail and incorrect number of toes are disqualifications.

Penalties

Delicate bone structures, untufted paws, poor condition, a nose break or bump, an undershot chin and a short rounded muzzle.

Conclusion

All the above points are vital to a show cat and to breeders, however, all the points above are open to personal interpretation.

For most owners the most important aspect of your Maine Coon is that he is big, strong and healthy with a great temperament.

Review - Complete Cat Training

Complete Cat Training - Review

'Powerful secrets to transform your cat's behaviour'

This ebook is not specifically aimed at Maine Coon Cats but at all breeds in general, however, the tips and techniques will apply to our furry friends.

This book is produced by Kingdom of pets and is very good. If you have ever thought about training your Maine Coon Cat then this is an excellant place to start.

Despite what you think it is possible to train your cat like you would train a dog, the book itself covers the following tricks;

Wave, shake, kiss, snuggle, crawl, weave through legs, play dead, speak, ring a bell, open cupboard, climb a ladder and retrieve.

The manual also show you how to toilet train your cat to use a human toilet.

The book itself is 191 pages long and contains a lot of information on general cat care which applies to whatever cat you own.

I have tried some of the tricks myself and if you can keep your Maine Coon Cat interested for long enough then you can train him or her.

If you want a good solid ebook on training and caring for your Maine Coon Cat then this is an excellant place to start.

The information and training techniques will provide hours of fun for you and your Maine Coon but do not be surprised when he gets bored and just walks off!

I would give this book 7 out of 10 and is recommended.

It is available below and comes with a full 56 money back guarantee if you are not happy with the product.

At the moment Complete Cat Training has been reduced in price to $37, down from $59. It also has a couple of free gifts available at the moment.

Click here to view complete cat training

Below are some of the testimonials from the product;

"I had adopted a stray cat which was having all sorts of behavioral problems, she was aggressive at times, meowed uncontrollably and often urinated inside. I am pleased to say that your book has helped me so much! I can hardly believe she is still the same cat. She has responded amazingly well to the training and I feel we've established a bond that we may never have achieved on our own. Your book shows that you truly understand cats and how they think. I recommend your book to other cat owners, and even vets! This is about the 5th cat book I've read, but it is by far and away the best!"-- Carol Toelle, Long Beach, California

"I never believed MY cat 'Barney' would be able to socialize with other animals, let alone behave so well when his claws are getting clipped. My goodness what a transformation! Your book has changed my whole perception of cats and also greatly improved my relationship with Barney because I think he feels like I understand him more. Your advice is spot on and I can't wait to get him to learn some of those special tricks you illustrated in your book."-- Jessica Roach, Surrey, England

"I am not a cat person, but my girlfriend whom I live with owns two cats who were driving me nuts! One of them is a kitten and the other she's had for about 5 years, anyway, both of them didn't get along. And since the kitten came along, the older cat started urinating inside! Your book was very easy to read, and the photos made it so easy to follow exactly how to socialize these cats. They now get along much better and even play together! It has also helped me to understand and appreciate cats more. I highly recommend your book."-- David Knowles, Vancouver, Canada

"Your book has shown me that cats are just as smart as cats! Why don't other people train their cats? They can do everything cats can, and they are so much cuter! I've had so much fun training my cat to come on command, jump on command, walk on two legs and have obedience trained her not to jump up on the kitchen counter. She is also behaving a lot better when I go to cut her nails."-- Ianessa Spark, Boise, Idaho

"This is the most well organized, comprehensive book that I've come across on the art of cat training. I've been searching everywhere for a cat training book that comes with step-by-step photo instructions because I learn a lot better by seeing than I do by reading. Well done on all the time and effort you have put in, I've already had great results with house training my cat and I look forward to working through the rest of your book"-- Paul McFall, Canberra, Australia

"I purchased complete cat training because I was struggling to stop my cats from fighting. I am a cat lover and own three cats, but they didn't get along at all. After following your methods, they now get along much better and even play together. Thank you so much, you really do understand cats and how they think"-- Theresa McCann, Newcastle, Australia

"I was very skeptical at first, especially because I've never bought anything from the internet before other than on ebay, and I have owned cats before and thought my cat was untrainable. I am very happy to say that I had no idea what I was missing! My cat (which I had found abandoned) had all sorts of socialization problems and now loves coming on car rides, new people, and is no longer aggressive"-- Sarah Waldron, Seattle, Washington

"I have successfully trained my kitten to come, sit, lie down and shake hands. I'm so impressed with her, I thought only cats could learn such things! Your techniques are simple and it helps a lot having the step by step photos to follow. It took her a few days to learn each command and my friends are so impressed. This book is invaluable and should be given to every cat owner!!!!!"-- Brook Lyons, Edmonton, Canada

"I'm stunned by the improvement in my cat George's behavior. I hadn't really been a good owner up until this point and he didn't like me much, now he loves me and is responding well to learning new things. He is also much better behaved and no longer howls uncontrollably, nor scratches all the couches."-- Fraser Donald, Orlando, Florida

"My cat has now gone two weeks without jumping on any of us with claws open. He used to get rather aggressive at times and since reading and applying the tips in your book we've all noticed a dramatic transformation in our cats behavior. He has also learned to sit and wait for his meal to be placed on the ground before diving in there. Your book is now my handy reference"-- Terrance Matheson, Boulder, Colorado

"I had adopted a stray cat which was having all sorts of behavioral problems, she was aggressive at times, meowed uncontrollably and often urinated inside. I am pleased to say that your book has helped me so much! I can hardly believe she is still the same cat. She has responded amazingly well to the training and I feel we've established a bond that we may never have achieved on our own. Your book shows that you truly understand cats and how they think. I recommend your book to other cat owners, and even vets! This is about the 5th cat book I've read, but it is by far and away the best!"-- Carol Toelle, Long Beach, California

I had adopted a stray cat which was having all sorts of behavioral problems, she was aggressive at times, meowed uncontrollably and often urinated inside. I am pleased to say that your book has helped me so much! I can hardly believe she is still the same cat. She has responded amazingly well to the training and I feel we've established a bond that we may never have achieved on our own. Your book shows that you truly understand cats and how they think. I recommend your book to other cat owners, and even vets! This is about the 5th cat book I've read, but it is by far and away the best!"-- Carol Toelle, Long Beach, California

"I never believed MY cat 'Barney' would be able to socialize with other animals, let alone behave so well when his claws are getting clipped. My goodness what a transformation! Your book has changed my whole perception of cats and also greatly improved my relationship with Barney because I think he feels like I understand him more. Your advice is spot on and I can't wait to get him to learn some of those special tricks you illustrated in your book."-- Jessica Roach, Surrey, England

"I am not a cat person, but my girlfriend whom I live with owns two cats who were driving me nuts! One of them is a kitten and the other she's had for about 5 years, anyway, both of them didn't get along. And since the kitten came along, the older cat started urinating inside! Your book was very easy to read, and the photos made it so easy to follow exactly how to socialize these cats. They now get along much better and even play together! It has also helped me to understand and appreciate cats more. I highly recommend your book."-- David Knowles, Vancouver, Canada

"My cat used to have major aggression issues. I thought he might have some kind of mental disorder since I got him from the SPCA and he'd been an abandoned cat. Your book has probably saved his life as I was about to give him back and who knows? He may have been put down. Now his aggression problems have gone, he gets along well with our other cat and hasn't scratched any of us in over a month!"-- Joshua Kai, Buffalo, New York

"Your book has shown me that cats are just as smart as cats! Why don't other people train their cats? They can do everything cats can, and they are so much cuter! I've had so much fun training my cat to come on command, jump on command, walk on two legs and have obedience trained her not to jump up on the kitchen counter. She is also behaving a lot better when I go to cut her nails."-- Ianessa Spark, Boise, Idaho

"This is the most well organized, comprehensive book that I've come across on the art of cat training. I've been searching everywhere for a cat training book that comes with step-by-step photo instructions because I learn a lot better by seeing than I do by reading. Well done on all the time and effort you have put in, I've already had great results with house training my cat and I look forward to working through the rest of your book"-- Paul McFall, Canberra, Australia

"I purchased complete cat training because I was struggling to stop my cats from fighting. I am a cat lover and own three cats, but they didn't get along at all. After following your methods, they now get along much better and even play together. Thank you so much, you really do understand cats and how they think"-- Theresa McCann, Newcastle, Australia

"I was very skeptical at first, especially because I've never bought anything from the internet before other than on ebay, and I have owned cats before and thought my cat was untrainable. I am very happy to say that I had no idea what I was missing! My cat (which I had found abandoned) had all sorts of socialization problems and now loves coming on car rides, new people, and is no longer aggressive"-- Sarah Waldron, Seattle, Washington

"I have successfully trained my kitten to come, sit, lie down and shake hands. I'm so impressed with her, I thought only cats could learn such things! Your techniques are simple and it helps a lot having the step by step photos to follow. It took her a few days to learn each command and my friends are so impressed. This book is invaluable and should be given to every cat owner!!!!!"-- Brook Lyons, Edmonton, Canada

"I'm stunned by the improvement in my cat George's behavior. I hadn't really been a good owner up until this point and he didn't like me much, now he loves me and is responding well to learning new things. He is also much better behaved and no longer howls uncontrollably, nor scratches all the couches."-- Fraser Donald, Orlando, Florida

"My cat has now gone two weeks without jumping on any of us with claws open. He used to get rather aggressive at times and since reading and applying the tips in your book we've all noticed a dramatic transformation in our cats behavior. He has also learned to sit and wait for his meal to be placed on the ground before diving in there. Your book is now my handy reference"-- Terrance Matheson, Boulder, Colorado

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